- Greece - September 29, 2026
- 14 days with the BMW R1300RT - September 5, 2026
- Travel Insurance for Motorcycle Riders - August 17, 2026
Whilst I dislike the long haul of flying to Europe and always swear never again, it is a part of the world still with twisty tarmac I want to ride.
But I needed something to convince me to travel so far again. I’ve ridden the alps which are scenic but I don’t find riding tight switchback corners enjoyable.
Norway was amazing thanks to once in a lifetime weather conditions. Sardinia was awesome but I rode most of the island. I think Portugal and Spain have superb motorcycle roads but I needed something new to motivate me to fly 30 hours again.
While surfing the net I came across a 16 day Greek self guided motorcycle tour which I kept thinking about. Designed with mostly two night stays offering the option to ride or sightsee every 2nd day and staying in places I would never choose.
I’m very experienced at putting together my own rides but I kept revisiting the web page and eventually decided why not try something different Warren.
As I did last year I flew out of Cairns on Jetstar to Tokyo which is a short 7 hour flight and from Japan I could then obtain a nice seat on Qatar at 1/3 of the price if I had booked same from Australia.
Even with more comfort it is a long way and if you get turbulence then it’s very hard to get any rest. I experienced significant turbulence as well became ill with reflux from foolishly eating a meal on the plane very late in the evening. But how can you refuse when its so fabulous.
So I got no rest before Doha – but at least my flight was not affected by the war.
I was curious the flightpath they would take into Qatar. Above is looking down at all the tankers lined up waiting at the port of Sohar, Oman (I stayed in Sohar on my Oman motorcycle tour). 2nd photo is one of the Qatar lounges in Doha international. I hate air travel but Qatar is definitely a great airline.
I’ve started prebooking private transfers for my arrivals. I find it is comparable price to taxi’s but you get a zero hassle experience. I used to look for cheapest options but it’s just too exhausting for me now so arriving Athens I had a driver waiting and smooth ride to comfy accommodation.
Athens
First full day in Athens I spent in bed. It always is difficult flying so long without sleep but I was only just over a flu from my last ride in Canada and the marathon journey weakened me.
Day two in Athens I have an appointment with John of MotoGreece to go through the paperwork and the tour outline.
Obviously with my travel experience I didn’t need anyone to plan a tour for me but as I mentioned what I did need was motivation to travel this far again and I had a desire to try something different to what I might plan as well I think Greece is a destination overlook by riders and some local knowledge will be invaluable.
I am presented with two very detailed tour books which list almost everything you could imagine, places to see, suggestions for coffee stops and dining. Maps, route info and lots of local knowledge. Everything is also in a Tom Tom GPS.
After this I take the subway back to my apartment which is just one stop away and return to bed. Unfortunately I have not done any sight seeing in Athens but getting well is highest priority and every big city is just the same for me. Fortunately I brought a full suite of medication with me this time unlike my Bhutan ride.
Athens to Nafplion
I’m feeling somewhat better, not fully recovered but ready to ride.
There is no Uber in Greece so I used the FreeNow app (by Lyft) same as I did on my German tour. You can prebook your ride which I did last night and driver was prompt and friendly despite only taking me a short distance for a small fare.
It’s already super humid at the bike shop, perspiration is dripping off me. Thankfully I have brought my Merlin Cordura jacket and pants not my laminated rider suit.
The bike I chose for this ride is one I’ve wanted to try for awhile. A Honda NT1100 (2nd generation) with DCT gearbox and active suspension. I question John about the DCT modus operandi and am assured I will adapt to it in very short time.
I am shown how to use the Tom Tom GPS and detailed instructions for exiting the city but it was easy with the route this morning being via the expressway in a loop designed to avoid Athens CBD. Toll was just 1.40 Euro and can pay cash or card.
Then I exit to ride minor roads by the ocean and have a big scare.
If you are a regular reader you might recall I crashed in New Zealand when I had a coughing fit and my airways blocked up and I could not breath and passed out (This is related to my cancer and surgery). Well I started coughing and with the viral infection and phlegm in seconds I sensed my airways were blocking so I immediately emergency stopped and fortunately recovered my breathing.
Yes I know I am taking some risks riding but what else should I do, sit at home and wait for my cancer to inevitably return. No, I’ll keep doing as much riding as I possibly can without delay.
By 11.30 it’s already stinking hot and seeing a bakery I do a u-turn (first challenge with DCT) and have an early lunch. Prices are 1/3 less than what I paid in Athens. Alas no pies Steve. But friendly staff with plenty of fresh salad rolls and tempting cakes and an espresso machine. I can feel my waist expanding already.
After this I noticed other bakeries during the day’s riding, not every town like in NZ but in some larger ones. Something I’m hopeful will continue. Finding lunch is one of my challenges in some countries.
Away from Athens speed signs are just for decoration. People are driving 2-3 times the posted limits. Also parking is anything goes. No spaces at the curb, just double park on the main road and put hazard lights on then go shopping. Helmets are not being worn by the many scooter riders.
But there is no sense of aggression here unlike some European countries. People speed but are not impatient or horn beeping and flashing headlights then doing suicidal passes forcing others to take evasive action.
I come to the end of the first part of todays GPS route at the Corith Canal.
While most everywhere accepts payment by card some cash is handy, buying a bottle of water from a small vendor or using a toilet you will need some cash.
From the canal I ride south on pleasant roads and stop to take a photo above where a fellow rider tells me I should make my way to Kosta, a town further south then my destination where there is a festival this weekend.
It’s stinking hot!, I thought September would be past the heat of summer but this was a very hot year in Europe (and everywhere).
I make my way to the Ancient Theater of Epidaurus. I am not planning too many historic site visits but this one appeals to me.
Reality check. It’s 34 degrees. I am feeling considerable fatigue from the heat but also from the residuals of my viral infection. I stop in the shade and drink another bottle of water, my 4th today. But once I sit down weariness washes over me and I know I best go to the hotel rather than jeopardise the entire tour on day one.
I have already seen other ancient theatres in Tukeye and what might be be one of the nicest located in Taromina, Sicily so it’s not the end of the world for me to miss one today.
Above: From my ride in Sicily.
The Tom Tom GPS takes me on a wild goose chase after this. Seems there was a waypoint that I passed that it did not register and so the Tom Tom decided to route me back to it rather than automatically check it off once I had passed a later waypoint.
Anyway 3rd time passing this view so I thought I’d actually photograph it.
Pleased that my hotel room is good quality. That was one of my concerns committing to something another person has planned. I tend to pay the extra few dollars and upgrade to nicer rooms these days. I used to always book the cheapest but I’m at that point in my life where it’s if not now then when?
Grateful that the hotel has icy cold air conditioning. I sure hope that continues. One of the things I find annoying in Europe is a lack of air conditioning, as well lack of a kettle and tea/coffee and lack of fridge. All are supplied at tonight’s hotel.
Nafplion – Loop of West Arcadia
I enjoyed a superb buffet breakfast on the rooftop of my hotel overlooking the town and castle. The ocean is just off to my right.
Today is rest or ride and I choose to ride – but first I have to find my bike keys. It seems on almost every ride I arrive at a hotel and place the bike keys somewhere I never normally would. Usually this happens on first night. Then I have a panic attack when I cannot find the keys.
It happened on my Mexico tour and I was sure I’d lost the keys and today I was getting very worried when eventually I found them inside my cooler bag. When walking inside to check in I must have put them in there instead of my pocket or bag.
I actually went an purchased a second AirTag tracking fob like I have in my luggage to attach to rental bike keys so frequently do I seem to do this but I left it at home due to flat battery telling myself I’m smarter now and won’t do that again (◔_◔)
Anyway I head off and it’s already warming up. The route today is not long so I should be back before the afternoon really heats up.
There is the archaeological site of Mycenae on my route this morning and I ride up to the location but see it is just ruins which don’t really interest me much in this humidity.
Then I am riding a series of totally empty back roads between farms before following a series of ridges with cooler air looking down at farm lands.
Then things get amazing as this road climbs over a mountain pass offering superb curves and views. And all this time I am the only person on this road, no cars.
Nice ride then to the town of Lividi where I stop at the town square but see no bakery then as I ride on there is a coffee shop with lunch items so another easy break. 5.50 Euro for cappuccino and a roast beef and salad roll seems ok.
More nice riding this afternoon, the roads have been superb despite this loop ride being not listed on good road sites. Starting to get used to this bike. Wearing Metzeler Roadtech tyres as has nearly every bike I have rented recently.
Then the descent back to the ocean is an amazing!
Back at my hotel I go for a walk and note the price for a one bed apartment here is about 100,000 Euro. That’s ready to live in not some pile of rubble for one euro in Italy. Mediterranean climate, Mediterranean diet, almost limitless motorcycle routes of Europe at your door and 500ml can of beer cold from supermarket fridge is 0.85 euro cents. Just saying.
I forgot to turn on the record when I started riding as I normally am riding my own routes and never need to record them. The green start button should be same as the red finish icon.
Nafplio to Itilo
Today I am relocating to my next base. There are two routes provided, the coastal road is listed as a good motorcycle route on web sites but then MotoGreece offers another route of all remote backroads which I never have seen mentioned so I decide to take that since using local knowledge is the idea this tour.
The coast road is scenic and nice curves.
Then I leave the main road and am on very remote mountain roads. I’m quite enjoying this diversion.
There are some switchbacks but they are infrequent and these roads are car free so I am not so bothered by them like when riding the alps where they are constant and you may have vehicles cutting into your lane which is especially difficult on right turns which are basically a u-turn with camber that drops away sharp.
The thought crossed my mind to buy some food before turning off the main road but I foolishly did not. It’s very remote here with no shops or services but I brought a box of trail bars from Australia with me and I packed two bottles of water in my cooler bag and have a full tank of fuel.
I stop for a comfort break at a mountain spring but am unsure the water is safe to drink. In Turkeye I enjoyed naturally chilled spring water everywhere but here there is not so many and I’m yet to see anyone filling water bottles.
Greece has the worst graffiti I have seen anywhere in the world. Literally everything everywhere has been vandalised, every road sign, even the speed limit and town names and guard rails. It seems they have just given up trying to combat it.
A car goes past, the first one in an hour. I am sure the coast would have been the nicer surface and surveying but I just love riding without any traffic and Greece is excelling in this.
Coming down from the mountains is a nice ride and eventually I am back in a small town where I stop at a corner store to grab a big apple and a drink. School is out and dad or mum are picking up children on scooters. I note that everyone including children are riding no helmets.
From here south the route supplied is actually bit rough but might please ADV riders whilst the main road it bypasses appears to be nicer curves on Google Street View.
I stop at a supermarket to grab some snacks and drinks as the hotel for the next two nights is not close to a town.
Easy ride along the coast and across a small range then down to the ocean.
Looking down at where my hotel for next two nights is.
Nice room. Everyone here is a couple, as one might expect. But there is an excellent in house restaurant and a friendly hotel cat and it sure is nice place to enjoy a cold beer.
Below is my alternative suggestion if wanting to do a ride that roughly follows my tour here. I actually rode more inland on very narrow roads really best suited to an ADV bike then I ended up where I have placed the bed icon on this map. The reason I say stop the other side is that is where Monemvasia is – also known as the Gibraltar of Greece.
Itilo
Rain today which means I miss out on seeing Monemvasia as a loop ride. It will be too far to ride back to it the following day as well then complete the route north to next hotel which is why I suggested staying there.
The hotel restaurant doesn’t open for lunch however I am prepared. There is a 7/11 In Narita airport so I purchased 4 of my favourite instant udon and ramen bowls. Furthermore I have a travel kettle with me this trip as well a selection of teas and coffee and cookies.
This all came about after my trip to Germany and Norway where I got annoyed with hotel rooms not supplying anything. So for this trip I thought screw it, I’m going to bring my own gear.
Anyway enough moaning, for this trip along with my standard Swiss army knife, collapsible camping bowl, fork and spoon that I always carry I also have my own one cup travel kettle (from Aliexpress) and a hot/cold cup so today I enjoy a delicious hot lunch and later in the afternoon tea with a cookie while listening to the rain – which took me back to my time living in Japan where it rains so much.
But how about some bike talk. Well the NT1100 screen is ok in lowest or highest position but turbulence in the other two positions. The NT1100 is sales success in Europe unlike Australia where we are not even getting the Gen 2 I am riding. I am sure therefore Givi make a screen that works better.
I like the DCT down shifts which usually blip the throttle or rev match perfectly but the upshifts are like an automatic gearbox with a pause not a full power upshift as I experienced riding in my friends AMG hot hatch.
I do like letting the bike run up through the gears by itself, its fun. But I wish the upshifts were little more aggressive.
The actual shifting as in when the bike shifts up or holds a gear even using the ‘Sport 2’ shift pattern has me still thumbing for a lower gear quite often.
Bikers in Greece flash their high beams to each other rather than wave. Still getting used to this.
Itilo to Vytina
Todays supplied route is listed as 5 hours yet I feel that is too long for the modest distance shown so I have added a small loop to the south to see a little of the Mani peninsular that I missed out on yesterday.
Leaving the small village of Itilo.
Mani peninsular
A view down the coast of what they call ‘the wild’ Mani peninsular.
Then on the return I took some remote back roads above where I stayed the previous two nights.
Traffic jam.
Re-joining the original route I started to see how this might take more time than I thought with heavy tourist traffic driving slow and few places to pass on the way to Kalamata.
I stopped a couple of times at what I thought were bakeries but nothing in the way of lunch items just loaves of bread. Moving on I saw a cafe attached to a petrol station so did a u turn but it’s shelves were empty. If I was a bit smarter I would have some fresh bread and tomato and cheese or ham in my cooler bag and just whipped up a sandwich. I ended up getting a coffee and breaking out one of my trail bars as there was rain closing in and I wanted to get moving.
The weather deteriorated from Kalamata where I ride inland and over a high range.
I managed to get a dry run up and then the rain caught me. I have not had to stop and put on wet gear for some time as I have been wearing laminated rider gear recently but it was no trouble today. I quickly zipped in my jacket liner and slipped on my Froggs Toggs overpants which I can do without removing my boots thus it was quick and not awkward.
Quite a few bikers on this route. Would be a top ride on a fine day for sure.
There is the famous ruins of Mystras along the way but just quick stop at this viewpoint in the rain.
Stopped at the first decent size supermarket I’ve come across (although they are still small here compared to Aussie supermarkets) and grabbed a pastry item for late lunch then some drinks and snacks for tonight’s hotel in case it too is remote.
Chance to make up some time after this on a fast open road. Got to test the NT1100 screen at highway speeds 120-130 and in the fully raised position it offers some deflection of rain but overall for a touring bike it has limited protection from the elements. I think my FJR1300 had a very good balance in that department however it’s weak point was (remains) poor shielding of engine heat which the NT1100 does not suffer.
Then the weather cleared and I rode some excellent twisty forest to tonight’s lodge which is a bit rustic but up in nice cool mountain air.
Alas there is no restaurant open and it’s too far to walk into the nearby village so while I hate putting a helmet back on after a shower I am left no choice. One nice thing about DCT is I’m not going to mark my walking shoes as there is no foot shifter.
5.45pm and nothing much happening. I pass some time then a couple of restaurants open at 6.00pm. So much better than Spain where I’d be waiting until 8.30pm.
I get a truffle pasta and a beer. Nice thing about Greece is nobody minds that I don’t speak the language.
I have Google translate loaded with Greek should I need it and do not expect anyone to speak English but it sure is nice that people are not angry that I don’t speak the language.
Last year in Austria hotel reception and the restaurant waitress were rude due to me not speaking much German. I could understand if Australia was close to Europe but we are not even in the same hemisphere.
I am shivering on the bike riding back to the hotel. Anyway I just crawl along there are no cars. The DCT if left in standard shift mode has the bike in 5th gear at 40kph with engine labouring and jerking along almost stalling. With all the technology we have now why is the shifting not smarter?
Back in my room there is no heating so I layer up and type some of this ride report while I try a glass of Greek red wine and ponder should I design my own route for tomorrow.
Vytina
The supplied route for today goes to Olympia, site of ancient games. The normal route there is closed due to landslide so John at MotoGreece warned me there was no good alternative and the morning ride over is not going to be anything special.
However on Motorcycle Diaries I see there is a fantastic looking one day loop ride in this region that is all mountain roads designed by a local. I pause, should I do the tourist thing or should I ride? The thought of joining 1000 other tourists at Olympia never really appealed to me much anyway so I already made the loop in Ride with GPS last night to ride today.
It’s a fresh start, 14 degrees, but I packed some warm items. I’m looking for the grip heaters – there are none. Why does a touring bike not include those? Reminds me of the KTM Super Adventure which also lacked grip heaters.
The villages here are all sitting up high on terrain easy to defend.
Riding south I am on the edge of a huge ravine and know today is going to be an awesome ride because I can see the route will take me down that then up and returning along the other side.
Local knowledge is really working well here today. There are lots of one lane roads riddled here but old mate who posted this ride has strung together a superb set of two lane well surveyed roads with great views all the way.
However this being back roads has not made it easy for me to find food. The small villages I come into have no supermarket or general store (unlike all the small mountain villages in Sardina).
You can’t pump your own gas in Greece so there are no unmanned card operated pumps here either but I anticipated this and filled up before starting.
Faster flowing roads appear as I start to make my way back to Vitna. I come upon a village of reasonable size and finally there is a bakery. I get a pasty and can of drink – and that will do the job, simple is good for me.
Very nice day of riding, so good I didn’t stop much to take photos as enjoying the flow of the roads.
Vytina to Nafpaktos
Todays route goes over what should be an awesome bit of tar but then is just highway to the hotel and shows an estimated time in Google maps of about 3 1/2 hours. I prefer easy days but I cannot check in until 3.00pm so even leaving late this route is bit short.
Looking at Motorcycle Diaries again I have extended the route past the hotel along what is listed as a nice coastal ride for about 40km then I will turn around and ride back thus filling out the day more.
I bid fairwell to the family of black cats at the mountain lodge. Whilst being bit remote I enjoyed the cool clear air.
The road surfaces here are not perfect like in Portugal but no traffic and awesome scenery make up for it as far as I am concerned.
The mornings ride is superb over a high mountain range and then down into Kalavryta.
I stop above the town at a war memorial called Place of Sacrifice. December 13, 1943 the German 117th Commando division locked the women of Kalavryta inside the school and set fire to it then led all the men and boys of the town, some as young as 12, up this hill and executed them. No one was ever held responsible.
1943 is not that long ago, or so I thought that the past could be easily forgotten and yet this month the right wing extremist AfD party has won two seats in Germany. But I digress.
I cruise up and down the streets of Kalavryta and find another bakery and thus my lunch dilemma for today is solved.
Then I am riding another huge mountain range. This one I know is somewhat famous having seen it mentioned before and I encounter quite a few riders on it today.
I tried to get some photos of this superb pass off the bike but they all suck so this is it I’m afraid but the pass is a terrific sweeping climb then a tighter but all new black hotmix descent with grand views out over rocky outcrops to the ocean.
On the expressway next which I don’t mind as the temperature has soared back at ground level after two days in the mountains.
Speed limit is 130 and everyone is doing about 140-150.
The NT1100 cruise control is on the right hand side. I need to use my left hand to activate it but then I can modulate my speed with right hand. I find the BMW switchgear on the left to be much better.
Impressive toll bridge takes me across the ocean.
Then I am riding my extension along the coast and wow so glad I decided to add this it’s lovely.
My 40km extension is all sweeping corners which are my favourite now days. I prefer a faster but easy flowing pace road over the tight technical corner roads.
Staying right on the ocean tonight in a surprisingly touristy town. No parking left anywhere but no problem with a bike I just put it on the footpath like locals do.
At reception the lady asks do I need secure parking and I explain I just parked on the footpath and ask is that ok and she says well not really but nobody will mind and your bike will be ok. I really like the vibe of Greece. Everyone disregards the rules and nobody seems to mind.
Nafpaktos to Lefkata
Todays supplied route is like yesterday, short and half is highway. I see on Motorcycle Dairies a bunch of recommended routes to the north, one in particular has an amazing viewpoint so I decide I have to try ride there.
It will be 335km with about 40km on expressway then the rest is slow backroads and Google is saying 6.5 hours but I know that it really will be longer but want to try.
I’m away by 8.30 in the cool morning air and it feels great to be on the road early instead of the slow mornings I’ve been doing so far. The expressways here look new EU money and are the only place I’ve seen roadside rest areas with public toilets which are otherwise hard to find.
Once off the expressway I turn north through a canyon before the route narrows and becomes slow going with lots of blind tight corners.
I have a car in front of me wanting to race me and moving to the middle of road on straights to block me from passing – but the joke is on him as I want to follow. The surveying is so unpredictable with no warning signs of tight corners but Old Mate in front clearly knows the road well so has been my pace car.
Eventually I want to take some photos thus lose my guide which is a shame as the roads get very technical as I climb higher.
Greece is all mountains.
The roads deteriorate and I reach the point where it is gravel and I stop to weigh things up. Am I still on the right route? I try to check Google maps but there is no cell phone reception. Then along comes a couple of cars I had passed way back they go past me so I figure guess this is right route still and find the road becomes sealed again soon.
Ruggard bit of road.
Very steep and challenging climb next with multiple tight switchbacks. I was wondering how I would go on such a road with DCT. I needed to force bike into low gear as well ride the rear brake a little. I would not want to be touring the alps on a DCT bike.
But then the ride opens and offers grand views all the way to the Tsagaralona viewpoint I was aiming for.
I have a rest here and being dumb I failed to pack a proper lunch again so just break out a trail bar but I feel a sense of achievement after riding some pretty challenging bits of road and I honestly after the buffet breakfasts I have been eating I don’t need lunch.
This road then follows the top of the range for some distance and improves in quality along the way. Then I turn onto the main road to make my way west not expecting much but wow I am gifted the most amazing mountain descent I have ridden in some years which I failed to photo having such a good time.
It’s beautiful tarmac with a few tight corners but not 1st gear switchbacks and it goes on and on. Did I mention I have not seen a car since those two that passed me back on the dirt. That’s the real magic thing here.
Get busy riding…
Actually that’s the mountain I came down and one of the best roads I ridden in a long time. Check the altitude of todays route in my map below.
After that superb descent I commenced another 3 climbs and then 3 descents. Woot! Greece!
Finally I reach a small town with a bakery and grab a focaccia and iced coffee despite it already being 2.30pm.
The scenery then continues to be superb as I make my way towards the coast.
I arrive at touristy Lefkata after 4.00pm. About 8 hours in the saddle and my limit these days however this was right up there with the best days of riding I have done.
Cold beer on a hot evening goes down a treat.
This is day 8 of 16. I will split my Greece ride report here or WordPress will grind to a halt. Next week I ride north to what is said to be the more mountainous region of Greece – if that is even possible.
See you in part two.
