- The Midnight Sun - July 19, 2025
- Motorradtouren - July 8, 2025
- A Fast Bike Through the Badlands - July 3, 2025
Norway Motorcycle Tour. Part One.
This is a very special ride for me.
This trip brings me full circle after 35 years of travel for it was Norway that I first dreamed about visiting.
I had a pen friend there that I used to swap computer disks with in the 80’s. We wrote a little of our lives, me in Australia Vs life on a remote Norwegian island.
In 1990 lacking any travel experience (or common sense) I tried backpacking from London to Norway however I fell quite ill. Being totally unprepared I made my way back to friends in Sheffield where I discovered I had almost free travel on British Rail (via a letter of introduction from my Australian railway company – back when that sort of thing existed). So I stayed and rode trains.
Everything Australian was popular in the UK in 1990. My home town beer XXXX bitter ale was selling in pubs as a 3.5% strength brew (as were all beers on tap) with the slogan “Australians wouldn’t give a XXXX for anything else”. INXS were huge culminating in their famous Wembley stadium sell out concert in front of 72,000.
In 1992 I returned to London and bought an ex British Post Ford Transit van converted for camping. I set off to see Europe again, still clueless but this time assisted by a girlfriend more clever than I and so we made it to Norway.
It may surprise regular readers that I used to be a video guy. I started shooting video on VHS-C in the 80’s, then 8mm and finally Mini DV. I shot video for many trips including these two I mention but even with snappy editing I never watched my travel videos more than once. After about 10 years the few photos of those journeys had become precious to me and I realised I was making videos to entertain friends while photos were the format I enjoyed revisiting.
That’s partly why I don’t have a YouTube channel. This blog is my diary not made to entertain others or please an algorithm. But more than that I prefer the written word and magazine style publishing. I’m generation X and I grew up in a print media rich era. I enjoy reading and I can do so very fast. So I hate watching a YouTuber talk for 5 minutes as if it’s a complex thing to explain when it’s something I could have read and understood in 20 seconds. Yet algorithms love this nonsense hence we have a dumbing down of society. But I digress.
Moving from 1992 to 2013. This was the year I decided to quit my career that I had worked hard to reach a well paid position in. Sell my apartment that I had only just paid off after sacrificing numerous weekends to work while my mates were off having fun. And leave Australia to become something like a digital nomad with just a pocket money gig with Instagram and a dream to try complete my bucket list (of moto adventures) even if I ended up broke later and having to drive a taxi because I felt so strongly that the opportunity to follow my dreams would soon escape me if I waited and that it would not be possible at all if I waited till retirement.
That bucket list of rides originally had about 40 loose ideas on it and riding Norway was at the very bottom because I knew it was by far the most expensive and also with challenging weather. Over the last 12 years I have ridden many adventures. I added and crossed off destinations but Norway stayed at the last position for when I reached my superannuation.
Well miraculously along the way I completed my ride list, beat cancer and now find I have arrived at that point.
This reveal might surprise some readers, it sure as hell surprised me, I did wonder more than once how the hell did this happen?
I can honestly say along the way I’ve done every dumb thing in life but the one right move I made was take that huge leap in 2013 that everyone thought was crazy and start doing the things I dreamed about while I was still young enough. Half of those rides I did then I already feel I am too old now to do solo or involve aspects relating to health or safety or comfort I no longer am prepared to be challenged by.
I have written a few posts in my BlogX2 sub section about how I thought that our self belief/confidence fades as we age no matter how much experience we have and that no amount of money can buy it back or buy the opportunities lost that only exist at younger stages of our lives. I don’t know much but I can tell you this really is true.
Please don’t wait to do what you dream about, the time will never be just right.
Munich to Hamburg
I was already in Europe and had completed a small ride revisiting the alps and some nice German roads in heat wave conditions.
After that ride despite my hotel being in Erding near the Munich airport I took the high speed train to Hamburg. Being the ex rail guy I admit to liking train travel and a window seat gave me a relaxed journey with views over the German countryside while also providing an opportunity to grab a little sleep.
Hamburg to Kiel
I read there was no Uber in Germany. If I try the app it just orders a metered taxi. There is an app called FreeNow which will set a capped price of a metered taxi so I use that this morning and was glad I choose the capped option as the journey in traffic to the rental shop took a long time.
I wanted to rent a R1250RT or K1600GT for this ride but those are in short supply now with rental shops mostly stocking ADV bikes so my choice was a R1250GS or a KTM 1290 Super Adventure. Neither in my opinion are well suited to cold and wet riding conditions but I picked the KTM just to try something new as I have already ridden the 1250 and 1300 GS.
Day one is short ride to the port of Kiel which should have been a relaxed affair but became a race after Stephan from the bike rental Motorradvermietung was tied up by a group of riders from Argentina who seemed to have no route prepared and numerous problems for him to resolve. I ended up over an hour behind schedule by the time I left his shop.
Fortunately the Autobahn was low traffic. You can’t make up time going a few kph faster but you can by doing 200+ kph. I experienced the KTM high speed weave that Stephan warned me about and wow it is scary.
I was last bike to check in and boarding the ferry to Oslo for motorcycles was well underway but I made it and running late meant I had not been sitting in rain at the port like the other bikers.
Kiel to Oslo
I thought about riding up through Denmark and visiting some locations from the Danish TV crime dramas (which I am a fan of) but this is a long ride with possibly challenging conditions and since my cancer I don’t have the stamina I once possessed. I already loosened the purse strings for this tour and to make things even easier on myself I am on an overnight ferry to Oslo.
While I sail north in a comfortable dry cabin I will mention I did more than my usual research and planning for this ride.
I read three books about rides to the Arctic circle; North to Norway by Stephen Oliver, A Fast Bike to North Cape by Andy C Wareing and Ride the Midnight Sun by Stephen Mason.
Prior to departure I also watched the latest ride from Charlie and Ewan, Long Way Home, where they ride vintage bikes to Lofoten Islands, which by coincidence is also my destination, but they took a ferry up and that seems to miss what I think could be the best part of this ride.
I did however pick up a few pointers from each of those books and the tv show with the main observation being it can rain a lot and it can suddenly turn very cold.
Straight up I decided this tour required a more specialized riding outfit than my Merlin Mahara gear. I looked at a few options but purchased a ‘laminated’ jacket and laminated pants from Merlin and laminated gloves from Rev’it.
Laminated gear is said to not become water logged like gear with zip in Gore-Tex liners but I still packed my Froggs Toggs rain gear just in case. I’ve also got a total of three pairs of Gore-Tex gloves. A new laminated mild temperature pair by Rev’it. A new warm Gore-Tex pair I just bought at the Held flagship store in Germany. And as backup since the others are untested my old Rough & Road Gore-Tex gloves which I hope to retire on this trip once the other gloves themselves.
Another thing I noted from my research was the need to keep visors free of fog in the cold and rain so I have reinstalled the supplied pinlock to my Nolan N70-2 X helmet rather than rely on anti-fog spray. Also I went to Bunnings and got a bottle of Rain-X and decanted some into a small container for application on rainy days to assist visibility.
I’m using My Route App (MRA) for my navigation this ride. The KTM has a TomTom GPS which I used simultaneously with MRA day one to the ferry but it’s too small a screen for my eyes.
Lastly I have even packed some roll top waterproof bags. My main bag I use on rear seat is supposed to be waterproof except it isn’t. I have a rain cover for it but I’m not taking any chances this ride after reading how the other riders all struggled with rain and wet clothes.
Oslo to Geilo
The ferry docked at 10.00am and unloading was quicker than I expected with bikes off early rather than last as is the case with Japanese ferries.
It’s not long before I am missing the BMW R1250RT I was riding prior to this in Germany. Here in the north it’s quite cool and I am looking for more protection from the wind that doesn’t exist on the KTM.
Oh well Warren, suck it up princess and make do with what you have. Once out of Oslo and off the motorway on country roads the speed limit falls to maximum of 80 kph and more often than not it is further reduced to 70 or 60, then towns are 50 and 40 so the windblast is less of an issue.
Apart from that a few early observations about the KTM – The fuel range seems low for a touring machine. A full tank shows 350km. Oh well more fuel stops is not a bad thing with the KTM’s seat. It’s not a bad seat, just not touring level comfort like found on the GS. On more positive note the gearbox is silky smooth and the quick shifter seamless every shift at any speed unlike the somewhat agricultural gearbox attached to BMW boxer engines.
Just an easy ride today in mild cool weather for my first day touring Norway with mountains starting to appear by days end.
Geilo to Balestrand
Today is overcast and cold and I feel like a fool. After reading about others being cold riding here I still seem to be under equipped gloves wise. Going over the higher sections of road this morning and through the very long road tunnels the temperature dropped to around 8 degrees and my new Held gloves seemed not warm enough.
But I think perhaps the problem lies more with the KTM. It doesn’t have heated grips. Like WTF? A flagship bike with radar cruise control but no heated grips. Then the handguards seem more for show than function. I’ve ridden in colder temperatures with less insulated gloves no problems but with heated grips and decent hand guards…
A famous lookout is positioned just a little higher on this road which is very narrow but they allow motorhomes which of course cannot get past each other and cause total gridlock. I turned around and settled for this point as in these conditions waiting in traffic to get higher will not improve the dull grey light.
Going to be a few more overcast photos coming up but stick with me as the weather improves.
My first of many ferries went well this afternoon. I arrived as the ferry was loading and have registered the bike’s number plate to a ferry auto payment system so there was no need to buy tickets they just scan number plate. (ferrypay.no)
I’m staying in a small town tonight with nice views but not much choice in affordable dining.
Norway is expensive and I accepted that when planning this trip and can afford to dine out at hotel restaurants but I only eat light meals at dinner these days due to reflux from my cancer surgery. Anyway I can usually find something light at a supermarket, as I did tonight.
But whilst on this topic there are no microwaves in European hotels and very few provide tea/coffee making facilities either so keep this in mind if you are coming here to ride. I was almost going to bring a mini electric travel kettle I saw on Amazon and insulated coffee cup to be able to make a cuppa and now wish I had done this but space was a premium.
Balestrand to Geiranger
Wet morning. I wait but nope the rain is not stopping so I get myself prepared and set off with MRA refusing to follow my route then it crashed leaving me on side of road in rain trying to reboot. I presume it is how I set the waypoints. If you give navigation software enough rope it will hang itself.
It’s miserable conditions so I change plans and task Google maps to take me fastest route to my hotel for tonight. Unlike rainy days in Japan there is no alternative to take expressways under mountains here but Google’s route is an hour less which sounds good to me.
Google’s route takes me back to yesterdays ferry and once on the other side of the Fjord the rain lessens. Then within an hour it eases to light drizzle and becomes just mist thrown up by cars.
In a large town I see a sports store so try for some glove liners. Yes they have some thin merino glove liners so I get these in hope they will boost the warmth of my Held gloves if needed as I move further north.
The weather from here is threating but not raining.
Looks dull in this photo but was still quite scenic to the naked eye with the mirror surface.
The southern approach to Geiranger is via a very high mountain road and is icy cold but fortunately dry and I have my thermals on so am comfortable.
I am not sure why but I sort of expected the fjord view to appear soon after the summit but actually you are much higher up in the snow and have a long descent before it appears.
I arrive at the worlds most famous fjord view in dull but dry conditions and am very happy. I’m staying right here in the small town tonight so I have another chance of scoring a better view tomorrow.
Geiranger to Sunndalsora
My idea to wear the super high cost of staying here last night has paid off. Today is brilliant fine weather. I ride back up for another look at the famous viewpoint.
The classic Norway postcard view. It’s much grander in real life than my photo can convey. Really something special actually when seen with the naked eye.
Then I ride up the northern side which might even rival the southern viewpoint in some ways.
Looking left to Geiranger village and the mountain peak behind it shows how high the pass was I rode over yesterday.
Some clouds in the mountains make for great reflections with still water which reminds me of some of my photos from Japan.
I am very fortunate that today the Trollstigen road is reopening after being closed a long time for repairs. Google maps still shows it closed but there is a Norwegian road app called Vegvesen Trafikk which I recommend you get if riding here. I double check the road in the app again before I board the ferry as it will be a very long detour if still closed.
Some butterflies as I ride towards the mountains as not many cars are oncoming which worries me but then a few bikers come towards me and give a big wave and I realise the road must surely be open and it is going to be ok.
Above is the view looking back down the stunning valley you ride up from the south for over 30 minutes with these views.
Then some views near the summit.
When I arrive at the lookout area below there are 100’s of cars and motorhomes which I suppose should be expected on opening day. But it’s total chaos with nobody able to move.
I thought I had a good photo of the switchbacks but it was such chaos I rushed things and it seems I messed up. It’s a place I could have done with a drone so here is a drone shot thanks to Google Maps to give you an idea if you have not seen this scene before which like Stelvio pops up regularly in social media.
And like Stelvio it’s not fun to ride switchback corners no matter what people tell you but they are easier downhill.
Then there must be 10,000 motorhomes in Norway which unlike most of Europe allows free camping everywhere. These behemoths can be found lumbering along at 30kph on every road including narrow mountain passes like this where they are too wide to pass each so everything came to a stand still a couple of times before I eventually got to the bottom.
Views on the way down once the log jam cleared.
And at the visitor centre at northern end of Trollstigen.
This is a big item off my bucket list. Actually it’s my last famous road to tick off and it only took me 33 years to traverse the Trollstigen from the first time I came here 1992. The road was closed back then like it has been recently. My thoughts drift to thinking if only I knew a little of what I know now back then, I guess it is a common dream. Very happy to ride it today in perfect weather.
Beautiful riding all afternoon with superb roads and amazing scenery. Every km is views of rugged mountains and lush green valleys.
Arrive at my hotel early but it’s 29 degrees and another room without air conditioning or a fan or windows that open wide. I am told these temperatures are very rare for Norway and hotel rooms are designed for the cold and I guess that makes sense.
I try the shops for a small electric fan but there are none, probably already sold out if they had any. There is a Thai food truck so I get green curry and rice and enjoy dinner in the park with a breeze waiting for my room to cool down a little inside.
I’m not equipped well for hot weather, my bag is full of thermal and fleecy items but I’ll deal with heat instead of cold and rain any day. The forecasts for my ride north from here look almost impossible for Norway.
Sunndalsora to Steinkjer
Another warm sunny day greets me when I part the curtains. This town is surrounded by high cliffs with snow on top that is melting and tumbling down as waterfalls everywhere.
Today is spent on main roads and is very easy riding. I move out of the high mountains and fjords so less photos to share but the country side is lush green with ice melt rocky streams reminiscent of riding Japan and I enjoy each kilometre very much.
I originally was going to ride via more fjords today however when planning this trip I had to keep in mind that any day (or every day) could possibly be cold with rain and I need to keep routes manageable for bad weather. Also I wanted to limit the number of ferry crossings. I imagined it would be miserable standing around at ports in the rain waiting for ferries.
As it turned out the weather today is perfect but a shorter day is still a good thing for me in 30 degrees wearing rider gear designed for cold conditions. But frankly it’s not too big challenge since I am from the tropics. Stay hydrated and keep moving to get air flow. The KTM’s limited wind protection is now working in my favour.
I stop for lunch at a highway rest area near Trondheim. You can get surprisingly decent food at the major gas stations here which all seem to have a cafe inside offering fresh cooked items and a bakery section (no pies Steve) as well the usual ready made wraps and rolls and a air conditioned dining area. I got a home style hamburger today that honestly I cannot fault.
Major highways and some tunnels are toll roads but motorcycles travel for free you just need to watch your speed closely as Norway has eye watering speeding fines. Doesn’t stop the locals tailgating me when I am sitting on exactly the limit (GPS checked) then passing me suddenly at a high rate of knots in their Teslas which every Norwegian seems to drive.
It’s a Saturday evening in Steinkjer which is a large town but almost nothing is open. Supermarkets sell beer but not wine or spirits which are only available at government liquor stores in limited towns and not sold on weekends. Then at the supermarket beer sales have limited hours and not sold after 6pm on Saturday or any sales on Sunday.
Just have to plan ahead and I already have some wine in the KTM panniers 😀
Steinkjer to Bronnoysund
The weather is great so I can take the scenic coastal route 17 to Bronnoysund today.
There is very little traffic on this route so I am enjoyed the road and making great time. I stop for a coffee to slow things down.
Lots of these quads being driven in rural towns. Check the sticker ha-ha.
Few more thoughts on the KTM after a week of riding it. The engine is insanely powerful. The power delivery is ferocious even just in street mode. Actually it scared me when hitting higher rpm’s but I’m an old guy now. I can see how power junkies and young guys would be big fans.
Dash visibility is excellent, I prefer black numbers on white background used by KTM and Moto Guzzi to the reverse used by BMW however there is no clock which seems a major oversight. It’s more nimble than the GS but still feels heavy at stop and the side stand is a little short so care is needed when parking or it will be on a extreme lean and remounting by the one foot on peg and climb on method risks making the bike fall over.
Not as many high mountains but still very scenic landscapes to ride through all morning.
Factored in plenty of extra time today should I need to wait longer for the ferry on a Sunday but my timing is perfect arriving when the ferry is unloading so almost no wait.
More pleasant riding this afternoon with beautiful scenery that I failed to capture – just an off day for me camera wise.
Ended up at my hotel well ahead of schedule but this allowed me to take a little nap and I really needed it this afternoon as fatigue was hitting me hard.
Sunday in Norway nothing in town is open, mall and supermarket closed. Only food option seems to be the servo or two food trucks. One is Thai food so I make a beeline to it but am told they are out of rice. Ha-ha, the thought of how is that even possible for a Thai goes through my head then I go to the other truck and get the worst kebab I have ever had.
I made up for that by enjoying some delicious cherries I had left over from yesterday. They are in season in Norway and are very high quality although I rate Tasmanian cherries a little higher.
Tomorrow I ride more of the coastal route 17 which I am told grows more beautiful as you move north. Every rider seems to have slabbed it north on the main highway (which is also my backup plan if it rains) but I’m really excited about getting to ride this less visited route which I think is going to be a highlight and where I will also cross the arctic circle before continuing even further north in following days to Lofoten.
See you in part two.
