Canada

It has been three years since my last ride in North America during which time I have been thinking where else I might tour in that part of the world.

I have seen some of the USA and might ride more of it one day but there is a big country to the north I have barely touched.

I follow the Ride the Highlands page and was interested in riding Ontario however I could not find a motorcycle rental there. Similar for Nova Scotia.

I got the idea to sail north on the Marine Highway from Bellingham to Alaska then ride back south to Seattle however decided I might be spending too much time at sea (based on my Norway cruising experience).

For this ride I settled on a variation of my Alaska idea but with less time at sea plus a visit to Vancouver to catch up with some friends.

I’ve been to British Columbia before and always thought it was one of the more beautiful places in the world and somewhere I’d like to see more of if I came up with a decent route and for this ride I think I have.

Not all but much of the route is new to me and should showcase a fair bit of the region.

This ride being all tarmac I was hopeful of renting a luxury tourer like a Gold Wing but it’s mostly ADV bikes available these days however I managed to source a BMW R1300RT from Cycle BC Vancouver which I’m looking forward to comparing to the R1250RT.

Favourable exchange rate AUD-CAD at the moment equates to a considerable saving over if I had rented in Seattle for Alaska (not that bike rental prices can ever be considered reasonable).

The direct flights to Vancouver were eye watering prices due to the World Cup which I was not previously aware played some games there. I decided I did not want to fly via USA due to the current regimes requirements I hand over access to my phone and laptop so I am flying via Japan.

Back in 2024 I joined a moto tour in Mexico which remains by far the best group tour I have done thanks to the wonderful people on it. Some of whom live in Vancouver and thus I am very spoiled to be staying with my friend Carolyn who I met on that tour. A huge saving for me too as hotels in Vancouver were booked out due to the World Cup.

Before setting off I was provided some handy sites to check the road closures. Drive BC and BC Wildfire service. I am fortunate that there are no fires or other road closures on my route (so far). Over in Ontario they are battling 100+ wildfires and if I had actually gone there then riding would have been impossible.

Day 1 Vancouver – Penticton

Picked up my bike from Cycle BC and used My Route App to get out of Vancouver which was no more than 15 minutes in traffic then I was on an expressway heading East.

I quickly realise this bike is missing the radar cruise control. Not an essential item but I kind of chose the 1300 because it is supposed to be fitted with that. I’ll comment on the 1300RT a little each day.

My Route App is superior to Ride with GPS however it drains phone batteries alarmingly fast. Just two hours and battery was down to 60% from a full charge. Given the ride should not be challenging to navigate I switched over to RWGPS and put my phone in my pocket just use voice prompts to my Bluetooth headset.

Unlike some of my rides there is no trouble finding lunch in Canada, most towns have a bunch of chain restaurants which makes my life easy. Today as it was nice weather I grabbed a Subway and had a picnic on a park bench.

Heading into the interior the temperature climbed until it hit 30. Stopped for fuel and got chatting to guy filling up a car beside me. When saying I came from Australia to ride BC he is genuinely surprised but also delighted and before he left gave me his number and says call if I need any help when on my tour. Very nice welcome on my first day of riding.

Temperature peaked at 32 approaching Penticton. It’s a heatwave. I did not bring any summer riding gear and last minute I unpacked my short gloves thinking why would I need those this far north. But I know I can handle it after my heatwaves in Germany and Norway last year.

Nice lake side town, friendly feel to it. I had a Japanese curry for dinner then could not keep my eyes open beyond 8.30pm. Woke up at 3.00am with the worst reflux. Stupid me eating curry for dinner.

(RWGPS embedded maps are not working currently so just images for this ride report)

Day 2 Penticton – Kaslo

Flat white coffee is a thing here. Nice to be able to get an Aussie style coffee on tour this morning.

Like the USA you are obliged to tip here. Even though Canada has a proper minimum wage and health care the tipping culture of the USA is firmly intrenched. I always say when in Rome do like the Romans to make life easier and will follow this rule while in Canada but I’m glad tipping is limited to North America and rest of world is free of it.

I went to the local Honda shop to try get some summer gloves. It’s a dirt bike and farm supplies shop not much of a range. I pick up a pair of moto-x gloves by Thor but they don’t breath any better than my laminated gloves. Oh well marginal improvement.

My route this morning is north along Okanagan Lake which is very scenic. I arrive at Kelowa city and hit some very heavy traffic and am melting. I wonder should I buy a cheap mesh jacket (In hindsight this would have been smart but I rode on) .

Tim Hortons is a Canadian coffee shop and fast food chain. I decide a quick lunch is needed so visit one today but the food there makes McDonalds seem like Michelin star ha-ha. Oh well I enjoyed their cold conditioning.

Route 6 from Vernon to Farquier is a popular bikers route. It is a fast flowing curvy road. Very enjoyable. I have my eyes peeled for Kate a rider from my Mexico tour who is travelling this route today from other direction. Two groups go past me but I am not sure she was in either. No prob, I plan to meet her after my tour and I get back to enjoying the ride.

I pass a sign saying last fuel for 82km and check my trip computer which says 162km range so decide ok I will get fuel at 82km. Then the range drops much quicker than it should and I arrive at the town with 40km estimated left but there is just an unmanned pump or ‘Card Lock’ as they are called here.

I feel stupid for getting myself into this situation. Trusting a sign to be accurate was dumb and I’ve no excuse for breaking my golden rule of never passing up the chance to grab fuel when the opportunity presents itself as that’s when things like this happen.

Good thing is the pump accepts my credit card and I am relieved to fill up. I’m going to blame the heat for my brain fade.

A very nice bit of riding it is then north along Lower Arrow Lake to Burton and further north to Nakusp. Saw my first deer this trip. These critters are like kangaroos and have no sense about vehicles. Kind of wish the R1300RT had the radar emergency braking it should have had fitted.

From Nakusp the road gets even better with more curves and higher mountains.

I stop in New Denver and get a drink and some local fresh cherries. Canada has the best cherries I have ever eaten.

This R1300RT reminds me of my former FJR1300 in that the large fuel load sitting up high makes it easy to lose your balance when pushing the bike back in a car park if there is any looseness in the surface under your boot. I like big touring bikes but I prefer the Gold Wing which has a lower COG despite being heavier and reverse gear.

The final section of todays route is the best road of the tour so far. New Denver to Kaslo is more twisty but still a fast paced flowing road. Also the temperature has been falling all the way and I arrive in Kaslo to a cool 20 degrees. Such a relief.

The 1300RT certainly handles well, if riding spiritedly then the RT is the clear winner of the big tourers. BMW are very good at making their tourers turn corners like much lighter bikes and the K1600 is also surprisingly good in corners.

I am staying in the historic Kaslo pub tonight. Nicely renovated albeit expensive room. Pub meals the world over are a bit overpriced now days but I deserve a reasonable meal after todays lunch.

Like Australia, young men from small towns in Canada signed up to fight wars in other lands never to return.

Day 3 Kaslo – Nelson

Leaving Kaslo I forget I had planned to ride north to the end of the Kooteney lake. Using RWGPS in my pocket I had no visual map reference and as the paths doubled up on top of each other RWGPS simple though ok he’s skipping the north. Oh well I got a car free ride back to New Denver on same fantastic bit of road as yesterday afternoon.

I removed the peak visor from my helmet to try reduce the turbulence when riding. BMW are not so good with aerodynamics. The R1250RT and K1600GT windscreens have poor aerodynamics and unfortunately so does this 1300RT. BMW persists with lifting their screens at the rear instead of rolling them up/down and therein lies the problem IMO.

The very observant of you may have noticed that isn’t my Osmo Action 5 but rather an Action 6. Long story but I lost my Action 5 in route to Canada and this being a once in a lifetime ride decided nothing I can do except buy another duty free (update- I ended up recovering my 5 and will sell this 6 for reasons I will post about separately).

Scenery here is beautiful everywhere you look.

It was 19 degrees leaving Kaslo so I hope today will not be as hot as yesterday.

Nice views of Slocan Lake on my way south from New Denver. I ride more of route 6 that I was on yesterday. This section is not as curvy but has great views.

I leave route 6 at Crescent Valley and ride Pass Creek road which is more my style, slower pace with plenty of corners. This road seems to be home to lots of people living ‘off the grid’ in caravans or sheds with yards full of old broken down American pick up trucks.

I turn right to Syringa Lake where I plan to have a picnic lunch.

I don’t keep a score card on my picnic lunch stops like I do with my pie lunches but today’s has to be right up there, what a spot and a great spread of food in a platter with rolls and dip with vegetables and fruit.

After lunch I crossed a couple of high mountain passes. The roads here are sweeping curves not twisty like Europe. Much of the time I am sailing along at 120-130kph which seems to be the norm here.

Reaching the most southern part of today’s route I drop down from the mountains and ride into 32 degrees. I’m used to heat in Australia but I generally avoid riding it in laminated gear. Obviously I should have bought that mesh jacket yesterday but I remain optimistic this heat will not last.

One thing most Aussies know is to be alert for the signs of heat exhaustion and to drink copious amounts of fluids. With this in mind I pull into a petrol station and get a 1.5 litre sports drink and spend time in the air conditioning while re hydrating.

Riding a bike you really notice the changes in the temperature. As I move north and gain some elevation the temperature drops to 28 and while that doesn’t seem like much it is very noticeable to a rider. My laminated gear actually is not the main problem in this heat, it’s the screen of the R1300RT which can never be properly lowered due to BMW’s non sliding design.

But my speed here can be much greater than I’m used to so once on the open road I engage the cruise control and get my hands out into the breeze to scoop air up my sleeves.

I’m at my hotel by 3.00pm which is perfect to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat.

I have a room with a kitchen and a supermarket nearby so am able to get some food for dinner and breakfast and prepare same back in my room as is my preference on tour. Australians, our groceries are very expensive but our Canadian friends have it tough also.

One thing this heat is good for is getting my daily hand washed clothes dry and thankfully every hotel room here has air conditioning unlike Europe.

Day 4 Nelson – Fernie

Cool start again today. I ride north to the ferry and meet a few other bikers waiting.

It’s a scenic sailing across the Kootenay Lake.

Then I have a superb ride south to Creston.

The road hugs the lake and I don’t take many photos but enjoy a car free run all the way. What a great ride!

First time to try an A&W burger joint and it was pretty good. Burger was more home style not like Macca’s and their mug’s of root beer are refreshing.

A lot of highway then riding east.

The sun returns and I am rewarded with some scenic views on what is fairly straight highway ride this afternoon.

Started to really get hot again up into the 30’s. I had to take a rest as I noticed some fatigue.

I am still enjoying the local cherries which are superb, huge size too. I buy a large drink at the supermarket and putting it in room freezer night before to have cold drinks with me.

I lost an hour crossing into Alberta. I’m a little perplexed why you would have summer time (daylight saving) here with this heat and the sun not setting until 11.00pm. Coming from the tropics we look forward to the sun setting so it can cool down. As Sting said ‘Bring on the night’.

Day 5 Fernie – Canmore

Cool morning again, 16 degrees and spitting rain.

I stop to check out what is billed as the worlds largest truck but I’m not sure about that claim, we have some massive ones in our coal mines.

Then I grab something for lunch at Subway as todays ride gets a little remote. I check the weather and see rain is moving north along my route and then as if on queue it starts raining steady so I toss a lousy drip filter coffee away and get a move on.

I need to go over Crows Nest pass which is shrouded in clouds and soaking wet before I can try outrun this rain. Immediately I feel vindicated for choosing the RT and bringing my laminated gear.

With the screen up I am shielded from the rain and all my gear is working perfectly. Metzeler Roadtech are good tyres combined with the RT’s weight makes for a sure footed ride.

I come up behind a rider obviously not having as easy time of it as me. Riding a mid size ADV bike offering zero protection from rain, dressed in one of those crappy PVC rain suits as well his bike has chunky ADV tyres which are probably butt clenching in the rain. I wave as I sail past. Sorry old mate but horses for courses, cheerio!

I’m clear of the rain in another hour and ride on some high plains.

I stop for lunch at a lovely small lake and wanted to stay longer but was aware of the rain not far behind me.

I come to what is the only fuel on this route for awhile and very nearly made the tour come to an end getting confused with pumps. I grabbed the yellow pump (Yellow being the colour for regular unleaded fuel in Australia), fortunately the attendant stopped the pump from flowing as this was diesel. Like Japan there is no rule for pump colours in Canada. The black pump at this servo was the unleaded but black is for diesel in Australia.

Safely refuelled I turned off the main road onto the Kananaskis Trail. This is a route only open in summer and it starts fairly tame but soon has mountains soaring up all around you.

Despite the clouds it was still very scenic but then I rode clear into sunshine.

Very beautiful and you know these mountains in real life are much bigger than my photos show.

I find myself at my hotel too early. A lot of hotels here are 4.00pm check in but of course a little earlier is ok however today I need to kill some time so decided to ride into Canmore to look at some wine as my accommodation for tonight is an Indian Casino in the middle of nowhere.

I could not find a room in Canmore under $450 a night. It’s a weekend in peak season so I saw this place and booked but looking now at the fine print there are resort fees like casino’s in Vegas charge – I’m not saving so much.

First time this trip to see USA wines on the shelf. Most shops have stopped selling USA wine, beer and whiskey (or anything US). It’s part of a strong buy Canadian/anti Trump movement. Anyway I grabbed a nice bourbon barrel aged Californian Zin, something hard to find in Australia.

Day 6 Canmore – Hinton

The air today is hazy. There are a huge number of forest fires burning in Canada at the moment but most well away from me.

I have not been managing my fuel well this tour so I detour into Baniff to ensure I don’t repeat my day two mistake.

The Aussie servo ‘hot box’ is rare here. Not something I would normally miss seeing but this morning it would have been handy to grab a sausage roll and a iced coffee as I did not pay for the expensive casino breakfast.

Packaged iced coffee isn’t a thing here either. There has been no iced coffee in the petrol stations. Kind of weird for me coming from Australia where a whole fridge is always dedicated to iced coffees and following my time in Japan which has two million coffee vending machines.

Yesterday I passed by some toll booths selling national park passes and went through the lane that said ‘through’ traffic. I thought I’m not camping or fishing just riding ‘through’. Today I turn off to the entrance of the Icefields Parkway road and there is big sign saying ‘park pass required’ and the booths there are all boarded up. The other booths are about 50km back so no way I’m turning around. I’m wondering this being 2026 why not just have a QR code I can scan and pay the fee via phone.

I’m lost in my thoughts about this then tell myself think like Ghengis Khan. Old mate GK famously said ‘if you are afraid to do something then don’t but if you are already doing it then no point in worrying’. I’m already here without a pass so stuff it.

The Icefields Parkway is one of the most scenic road journeys in the world and the haze has mostly cleared for my ride here today 🙂

It’s a little crowded today at viewpoints but I’m on a bike and can just pull up on the side of road unlike cars that are queuing for a car park.

The traffic at times is heavy however I’ve tried to avoid taking photos until I get a break ahead.

Too many things to take in. Every turn brings a new amazing vista. Here are just a few.

Small selection from what is one amazing view after another.

Above is looking forward to the climb to the Columbia Icefield and below a view looking back from further along.

The glacier is still here, I was wondering if it had melted. Might have retreated a bit since I last visited.

Getting hungry I pull off into what seems to be a quiet rest area. It’s a camping spot which probably is all reserved but I spot a picnic table in the shade and figure nobody will mind.

Murphy’s Law of course is always waiting to ambush and of the dozens of places I passed I pick the one where a park ranger vehicle has arrived. I hope they won’t come near me but then one of the girls in the truck walks my way as I am eating and asks did I want to camp and I wave my sandwich and reply just eating. As she walks on I inhale my sandwich and jump back on my bike. Shortest lunch break of the tour as I hightail it out of there before any pass checks are done.

The traffic thins considerably as I ride the northern section of the parkway. I am looking for a roadside layby where I stopped and took a selfie when I was last here about 26 years ago.

I can’t tell which, it was a long time ago. Eventually I choose one and take another selfie all these years later. So glad to be here.

There is a storm brewing. I want to get out of the mountains before that arrives so reluctantly make my way towards the northern exit of the incredible Icefields Parkway.

I stop for a last look back at some of the peaks. This photo from afar more accurately shows you the scale of the mountains. That’s actually how high they are as you are riding there.

I exit the park and breath a sigh of relief I made it without any pass check. Genghis you were right. Apart from Freycinet in Tasmania the 600 odd national parks we have in Australia are free so paying to drive through one never crossed my mind.

It becomes very hazy again from Jasper out to Hinton where I am staying tonight as I could not find a room in Jasper under $500 a night.

Actually I think I am in the very same motel I stayed at last time I was in Hinton (for the same reason Jasper was too expensive back then). Looking at the interior décor it would appear nothing has changed in 26 years. But it’s close to shops and will do fine.

One nice thing about touring North America is finding dinner is so easy. In some countries finding lunch or dinner can be a challenge or you need to wait until 8.30-900pm for food to be served in Spain but here I am spoiled for choice.

Day 7 Hinton – Prince George

Cold and overcast morning. 13 degrees. I tell myself don’t even think about mentioning “well at least it is not raining”. Those words must never be uttered on a motorcycle.

I will gain an hour today crossing back to BC so pass some time over a ‘latte’ in a Tim Hortons listening to the girls behind the counter all Filipina’s with Visayan accents. They drink drip filter coffee in Cebu too but I find the taste weak compared to espresso coffee.

Anyway waiting for my drink to cool down from nuclear hot does the trick and it’s warmed up to 19 degrees outside, quite nice for riding.

Passing Jasper and moving north this drops back to 16 but again ‘big bubbles no troubles’ on the RT with screen raised and grip heaters on. No seat heater on this bike. Most likely more cost cutting by BC rentals.

I get the impression this route would be quite scenic on a fine day but today is overcast.

There is a break in the weather and I stop at a rest area to stretch the legs and switch over to a thermal base layer shirt then decide to break out my picnic lunch as I have the premonition that I am about to ride into rain and should eat now. I also switch to my warmer Held gloves and Halvarssons neck gator for first time this ride and set off toasty warm.

Buy the time I arrive at McBride, the town I was going to eat at, it is indeed wet and a light drizzle.

One pub town. I refuel at a well equipped small petrol station which even had a pizza over in middle of nowhere. Staffed by girls from India as has been every petrol station I’ve stopped at this tour. Fuel here is 1.95-2.25 per litre depending on octane, not so different to Australia despite Canada having it’s own oil.

Leaving McBride the rain really picks up and the temperature drops to 13 degrees. Still at ease in these conditions on the R1300RT. With the screen fully raised the rain never hits me directly. It’s a solid wet ride for next two hours.

The rain stops as I approach the city of Prince George. My laminated gear has worked perfectly and I am totally dry.

Lady at the motel asks me did I get wet to which I reply it rained a couple of hours. She tells me it has been raining non stop last two days and only eased this afternoon. Phew, glad I dodged that!

So many choices again for dinner tonight. I still prefer to grab something and relax in my room so a sign saying any large pizza $13 sounds good to me.

Day 8 Prince George – Smithers

I have a lie in because by now I know my route of 370km will not take long with average speed of 120kph. Setting off it is 13 degrees and I have two thermal shirts on.

I arrive at a town called Fort Fraser and see a few shops called The Last Spike so figured this must be a historic place with Canadian rail and sure enough I eventually found a memorial to this being where the last spike was nailed for the completion of the grand trunk line which being a retired rail guy was interesting.

Not too far on from this I stopped for lunch at Fraser Lake after grabbing a Subway ‘hot dog’ which is a limited time item here. My tip: stick to their sandwiches. But the lunch spot was fantastic.

A lot more highway after lunch. I can see why many are riding a Road Glide or Gold Wing. Makes sense on these wide roads with gentle curves.

The further I move north the greater number of huge America pick up trucks are on the road. I stop at a rest area and finally see someone who has a reason for owning one.

That caravan is bigger than my apartment.

Today’s observation about the 1300RT, the non radar cruise does the job fine and it’s easy to moderate your speed with the BMW cruise switch gear. The gearing or the 1300’s power curve means in 6th gear the engine is slightly labouring at 100kph and only good at higher speeds. There is a phone compartment but no USB power outlet. It’s a fine bike but I prefer the older dash and dedicated windscreen button of the earlier R1250RT’s.

The temperature in the afternoon soars until we are back up to 32 degrees. I never imagined the north could get this hot. I’m staying at the town of Smithers tonight but stop about 13 km out to take this photo and re hydrate before the final leg as feel some heat exhaustion creeping in.

Glad my daily distance is modest (for these roads) given how the heat arrives in the afternoon. Reminds me of Thailand in their ‘winter’ with cool mornings but afternoons that hit 35.

Day 9 Smithers – Prince Rupert

My route is about the same distance as yesterday so I can have lie in and wander around and get some breakfast before needing to pack up my gear.

It’s already warm enough to leave with all my jacket vents open.

The riding this morning is more scenic and more curves too albeit gentle ones but with the average speed still enjoyable.

Really nice riding all morning.

I stop again at an A&W for lunch. Not because I am a fan of fast food but their burger the other day was tasty enough and it’s now 30 degrees so I want to cool down in air conditioning for awhile and drink one of their tall root beers.

After lunch the scenery and riding is superb. Huge mountains all around me and plenty of curves.

There are a number of spectacular mountains on my right each with a caldera rimmed with snow and waterfalls tumbling down which I tried to photograph. This northern region is fantastic.

Reminds me of Norway up here but it has it’s own grand Canadian beauty.

As the Skeen river widens and I get closer to the coast I encounter some strong icy cross winds. I come across a couple of rider groups all on ADV bikes. I’m glad to be behind a big touring screen.

Such a beautiful day of riding.

I arrive Prince Rupert which is the end of my northern ride. From here I will take a ferry back south tomorrow early.

Day 10 Prince Rupert – Port Hardy (by ferry).

I’m awake early and at the port by 5.30am. Check in is 120 minutes before departure. I had the hotel make me a packed breakfast, also I have prepared a carry on bag with change of clothes so I can get out of my biker gear as well my laptop and charger etc.

I chat to another biker for awhile and she asks me did I book a cabin to which I replied of course, its an 18 hour sailing. She did not seems to just be going to spend the time sitting around in her rider gear. When younger I probably would have done the same.

Bikes are boarding by 6.00am and by 6.30am I am in my cabin tucked into bed. A thick fog rolled in outside so I’m not missing anything and need to rest after another night awake with reflux.

It is a scenic sailing down the inside passage. The day passes with me alternating from editing my ride photos to taking in the view.

Egg sandwiches are a thing here like in Japan. I grab same for lunch and take another nap in the afternoon. Dinner time rolls around and I get the roast chicken from the ships cafeteria and it is pretty good. If you decide to do a ride here like mine then check the sailings for the MV Northern Expedition, it’s a German made ship, modern and comfortable.

We arrive a bit late at nearly 1.00am but my cabin had an ensuite so I’d already had a hot shower and am first off then it is only 9 minutes to my hotel which is expecting me at this time of night. I have not ridden in the dark for years and am having a bit of a hard time seeing. No backlit buttons on this R1300RT.

Day 11 Port Hardy – Gold River

Fog is blowing in when I start my ride.

Today I am making my way south on Vancouver Island.

First up a side trip to Port Alice. Very nice road, first proper twisty corners I have ridden this tour.

Port Alice is a very pretty village with beautiful water views but long way to travel to services and shopping.

Back on the highway south I’m provided with a few curves and occasional mountain.

I stop at a small shop and grab another egg sandwich and ask is there anywhere nice with picnic tables to eat and the staff suggest I take the road into Sayward and to rent a rod and try my hand at Salmon fishing while there. I’m not into fishing but it is a nice ride and I find a small park to eat at.

Onwards next to Campbell River a major town where I grab some items for dinner tonight as I am staying in Gold River a village with a nice hotel but very little else. I booked a room with a microwave so grab a store made butter chicken and rice and some fruit and drinks and am set.

It’s a great ride out to Gold River, bit of everything, some tighter stuff some sweepers. Well worth it. I’ll try shoot some photos of it on way back tomorrow as it’s again 30 degrees and I’m tired and ready to park the bike.

Day 12 Gold River – Denman Island

A cloudy start soon clears away to a lovely day and I enjoy the Gold River road again.

I see some deer crossing the road here. Skippy at least sleeps during the day but deer it seems can be active at any time.

Today is a short route to Denman Island where my friend Carolyn has a holiday house. The R1300RT handles some gravel about how you would imagine a heavy tourer might. Not too difficult long as you take it very slow.

It’s a lovely location on the water with deer walking in the front yard. Gillian Anderson from the X-Files has a house 2 doors down. I feel lucky to have this special experience.

Day 13 Denman Island – Victoria

Todays plan originally was to ride the Sunshine Coast but looking closer at the ferry times they run infrequently. It would be impossible to get further than part of the way then need to stay overnight and even that would be a late evening arrival when rain is forecast.

That’s not something I wish to experience and the best decision is I ride south to Victoria to stage getting off Vancouver island Sunday morning so I can get the bike back to the rental shop before 3pm closing time.

After a huge delicious breakfast of pancakes and Canadian maple syrup I leave Denman island and my bike gets squeezed into a corner of the ferry which was fortunate as many cars were left behind.

The weather is gloomy and spitting rain so I just raise the screen and ride south to Victoria.

It was a easy ride into Victoria no heavy traffic and my hotel with a low rating booked last minute is much better than I expected with secure undercover parking. I’m staying in Chinatown with plenty of nice food options for my final night on tour.

Day 14 Victoria – Vancouver

Woke up and decided to aim for the 10.00am ferry in case I cannot get on the 11.00am sailing. Heavy rain all the way north to the port. Surprisingly expensive fare for a motorcycle but I am assured I will board the 10 o’clock, then the ship sails with me left on the dock.

I meet another rider and we have some breakfast in the port cafe. He is a very vocal critic of BC Ferries but fortunately we are onboard the next sailing as any further delay I would have struggled to get the bike back on time.

Heavy rain from landing to the bike shop but my Merlin laminated gear works perfectly. Felt sorry for the other rider I met who was on a vintage Gold Wing wearing leather jacket and a open face helmet – but I guess this is summer for locals.

Some grid lock entering outer Vancouver so I started lane splitting. Turns out that is illegal here, oh well I’m not going to stand still when it is pouring rain.

Smooth return of the bike. They have a huge fleet for you to choose from. No K1600’s but pretty much every other BMW. Recommended.

I enjoyed another couple of days of wonderful Canadian hospitality staying with Carolyn and her family and made two new furry friends. Saw some more of North Vancouver which is a lovely place and became a fan of Big Way a hot pot restaurant chain.

But wait there is more (riding).

On the afternoon of my last day the weather cleared and I got to ride the Sea to Sky highway with Carolyn and Kate on Carolyn’s Triumph Tiger 800.

This is a fabulous road of sweeping curves with grand views of the bay/fiord. Thanks to BC’s relaxed policing and a spirited pace set by Kate was a superb ride. We rode up to Garibaldi or thereabouts then back to Squamish for dinner then home to North Vancouver as the sun was setting.

Carolyn rides this every week for fish and chips on the river at Squamish. Wish I had such an amazing road with incredible scenery just 10 minutes away from home. Has me again questioning my current location which is wonderful in many ways but offers me zero local riding.

It was so nice to be riding with these two amazing girls again.

Hope to ride some more with them.

Riding Canada exceeded my expectations. The scenery everywhere was beautiful and the Icefields Parkway in Alberta is on another level. And then I was overwhelmed by the hospitality of my hosts who I only thought I’d try catch up for a beer but ended up staying a few nights with and discovering how nice life in North Vancouver is.

I highly recommend you ride British Columbia and Alberta. The scenery reminds me of Norway which is the highest compliment I can give. Unlike Norway you have a good chance of fine weather and actually seeing the incredible scenery if you visit Canada. It is also an easy destination to rent a bike, navigate, book motels and to eat. Nothing remotely difficult other than the unexpected heat wave.

Four flights for me to get back home so I stopped over in Tokyo a few nights. I resisted buying another lens for my camera which I hardly used this trip but enjoyed some nice food. Prices have not changed since I lived here, $6-10 still buys you a fantastic meal. No smart gates in Tokyo Haneda airport (none in Vancouver either where immigration took 40 minutes) but I breezed through Sydney immigration in 1 minute, one thing Australia is leading in.

I again find myself saying I will scale back my overseas touring but so far I have failed to find anything else besides riding motorcycles that I enjoy. I have one more far flung trip booked for this year then will see how my health is and what I might do next year!