Bhutan Motorcycle Tour

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Warren

Hello, I’m Warren, writer and photographer of Motorcycle Paradise, a free and independent website about motorcycle travel. There is no sponsored content here, just my personal stories, written simply, of my dream to ride the worlds best roads.

Latest posts by Warren (see all)

• 100 Motorcycle Tours - December 27, 2025
• Bhutan Motorcycle Tour - December 9, 2025
• Lone Rider - November 18, 2025

This year my Norway tour completed my moto ride bucket list. However I previously crossed off a couple of rides due to cost or being unsure they would provide the kind of riding I enjoy. I don’t feel any need to add another pin to my countries ridden map just for the hell of it but I remain curious about a couple of destinations.

One those is Bhutan, also known as The Land of the Thunder Dragon. The only Himalayan country I have not ridden.

Bhutan historically has been a remote and closed kingdom never colonised. A ban on television was only lifted in 1999 and it held the title of least developed country in the world. The country has since been rapidly modernising, however currently still remains one of the less visited countries in Asia which means now is the best time to go and wanting to see it before too much development attracted me strongly.

I don’t join tours often. Partly due to their crazy prices and also because I dislike group dynamics. However some destinations, be it for safety, logistics or visa restrictions favour group tours a little more. I was hoping to ride China again in October but that fell through so I decided to give myself permission to splurge on something expensive to celebrate reaching 3 years in remission and grabbed the last seat on a tour in neighbouring Bhutan.

My success with organised tours has been mixed. My Edelweiss Alps tour despite two selfish riders was an excellent introduction to motorcycle touring and it’s a shame their tours have become so expensive. My Ride Expeditions Himalaya’s tour was also good except for the vegetarian diet forced upon everyone. My Karakoram Bikers Pakistan tour had the most amazing scenery but was let down by the accommodations. On my MotoDreamer Colombia tour Mike provided superb accommodation but every day the riding was a high speed race. And lastly my Adventures Pacific Mexico tour suffered from being a scouting trip however remains my best group experience so far.

I stated at the end of my Colombia ride no more group moto tours for me but this seemed the only way to ride Bhutan. (update – I have gathered the necessary local contacts for you to do a semi independent ride in Bhutan which I will share at the end of my ride report)

I stopped over in route at Bangkok for a few days. Might be my 20th time here but I still enjoy visiting this city on my way to or from somewhere (apart from the shocking immigration arrival queues BKK still has not improved).

Some Bhutan moto tours start and finish in India but I prefer to avoid Delhi if possible and also not waste tour days on border crossings so I sought a ride that runs entirely inside Bhutan and after enjoying a few days of fabulous food flew from Bangkok to Paro.

I got a window seat of the correct side to see the Himalaya’s. The captain called out the many famous peaks visible including Mt Everest.

Landing in Paro is not a simple matter. Please enjoy this video from Sam Chui. (Would love to hear your comments on this Dave)

Such a lovely small and quiet airport, no queues and what is the nicest luggage collection area I have ever seen. I exchanged a little cash at the sole currency exchange at a honest rate for incidentals, the tour is all inclusive so I should not need much local money.

After immigration procedures I was met by a representative from Two Wheel Expeditions. This company seeks to differentiate itself from others by claiming to provide the best accommodation and the best dining experiences which is why I chose them over less expensive options. Joining any tour in Bhutan is not cheap so I figured if I try save a buck and the operator under delivers then I have wasted my money and what will be my only visit.

First impressions are good, 4 star hotel, nice welcome with gifts and besides the usual tour t-shirt a tour fleece hoody also. A briefing is held before a group dinner. The mileage is modest but the pace is slow thus with sightseeing and extended stops it will fill each day.

Day two is a shake down local ride. Fleet of almost new Royal Enfield Himalayan’s. Weather is cloudy, pretty cool but not too cold.

We ride up to a view point of Thimphu the capital city of Bhutan then to a wild life rescue centre then across town to a Giant budda.

Lunch was some typical Bhutanese foods which I was not so fussed about but then a nice dinner was held at an Italian Bhutan fusion restaurant run by a charming woman who lived in Milan for 6 years.

Day three is a 8.30 departure. Winter is approaching making for short days. Temperature is a brisk 4 degrees.

First a nice climb up a mountain pass and visit a war memorial for an ancient battle then a most welcome coffee break inside a cafe with wood stove. Rather cold here at 1 degree.

Slow descent behind a very cautious rider in the group who I should have just passed but this being early in the tour I tell myself to kick back.

Fantastic lunch at this viewpoint below. The setup reminded me of the Edelweiss tour picnic lunch and really impressed me.

Afternoon of mountain riding on superbly surveyed roads with light traffic. Bit cold and misty up high.

We stopped at this tea house for afternoon tea and meet a very attractive woman ‘influencer’ from India who boasted she has a million+ followers on YouTube and lives in Dubai. Good luck to her but these influencers seem to be the sort of people who would sell their grandmother for more subscribers.

More curves and then it became very cold late in the afternoon riding over a high pass to do a touristy thing of visiting a crane (bird) conservation centre.

Nice hotel, large cabins (below) with good fit-out. Buffet dinner was simple but plentiful and a big wood heater was terrific. I’m mindful not to drink too much at altitude so had just the one beer.

I read the average altitude of Bhutan is about 3000m and while riding I do not notice it but walking and just getting my boots off I found myself breathless.

Day four is a sub zero degree morning. I break out my serious Tourmaster ColdTex 3.0 gloves and my fleece lined neck gator as well double Uniqlo thermal base layers, all stuff I have not used since riding Autumns in Japan.

We retrace yesterday afternoons narrow mountain road then another mountain pass follows albeit both are damp and cold.

However things improve with the arrival of some sun and drying roads.

At the morning tea stop I have to disassemble my visor and then remove my pinlock which has fogged up internally. Quick clean and then it is fine. So glad I fitted this as I see some guys with their visors cracked open to stop fogging but their faces must be cold.

Then some nice sweeping curves in a lovey pine forest.

Next we climb again and trace the rim of a long and deep gorge. Mixed surface but mostly very easy riding on the long suspension travel Himalayan.

Also predictable surveying always helps and this was very enjoyable twisty backroad riding that ended with views of this fort (below).

Nice big spread of food for lunch today at this waterfall.

Some of the group’s characters are starting to be revealed. One guy always has to ride in number two position behind the guide (Reminds me of our old mate who always did same on our Ultimate Alps Tour Kevin if you are reading).

Another rider taking himself too seriously is comparing chicken strips (◔_◔). Meanwhile the two Kiwi’s and another Aussie like myself, are all experienced backroad riders and barely raising a sweat.

Also very experienced is one guy from New Jersey and one from Vancouver who have ridden around the world on some epic rides. Together we make up the lead group riding mostly towards the front – not that speed is ever much more than 60/70kph.

Then there is the second group of riders, perhaps less used to these sort of roads. No problem except the two slowest riders often jump the start after each stop to ride in the lead then won’t wave past riders they are holding up. Why would you do that, not sure what you are trying to say?

Oh well I was tiring of this after lunch and did a block pass on one of these guys. (the bikes only have 25hp so not so easy to quickly pass) I don’t want to appear rude but this is my ride as much the other people on the tour so if you don’t have the manners to wave others pass then tough cheddar mate.

Balance stone monument I contributed to at the top of what was a superb mountain ride once I had the little Himalayan engine singing.

Nice swooping descent down the other side too which was fun. Then the group visited a rug shop (yawn) before the final ride to our hotel.

Tonight’s hotel rooms are rustic (which is trendy way of saying basic). A simple buffet dinner was again provided which was tasty and plentiful.

Day five.

We return over the same terrific mountain pass from yesterday afternoon.

View from top.

Weather has cleared but still pretty cold. Very nice bit of riding on the descent.

More twisty backroads riding follows on roads not as wide with steep drop offs. Lack of guard rails had some riders surprised but I was still comfortable here. The pace is low and these lightweight bikes are so nimble and easy to ride. Just fun riding not challenging.

Nice riding all morning on elevated roads tracing down that valley in the above photo before we started climbing again.

Lunch today was picnic style at a small roadside rest area which I really enjoyed since I love that kind of stop when I ride by myself.

Then yet more good riding. Today has literally been non stop corners. I’m feeling a little fatigue creeping in but not too bad after what must have been many 1,000’s of corners. A big bike would be tiring here.

Traffic Cow jam. There has fortunately been very few cars on these slightly narrow roads and even fewer trucks but drivers here are generally well behaved.

Regrouping before we ride a rocky track for 5 km to tonight’s accommodation.

After the arduous approach the accommodation in the middle of nowhere actually looks decent except there is not enough cabins for everyone – something that was known in advance… So some people are going to be placed in tents with a shared bathroom – this goes against the TWE claim “we stay in the best accommodations”. Anyway I must have an ensuite due to medical reasons which I explain to our lead guide Pasa.

After the welcome drinks are done I make my way to my cabin but find two of the Canadians on this tour (one being the guy who hogs 2nd place) have occupied my cabin and tossed my bag in the next cabin which was already assigned to the other Aussie. What a pair of assholes. Back I go to Pasa who arranges for me to stay in that 2nd cabin and unlucky for the person previously there who is transferred to a tent.

I’m more than a little bit mad but we all have a long way to go still so engaging in any tit for tat will just lower my enjoyment of the tour.

But then there is also no hot water, just an immersion heater and a bucket. Anyway I warm up some water to wash myself. Tonight’s meal is another buffet of similar food. I’m enjoying riding Bhutan and not going to dwell on the two dickheads next door but the standard of accommodation better improve because this is not what I paid for.

I’m not sure if the guides picked up on this or if it was planned but bottles of Bhutan whiskey appear at the fire and the night gets hazy.

Day six.

Up and at it next morning but I am woozy still from all the free whisky. Oh well I’m sure it helped the tent dwellers get to sleep.

Superb mountain climb this morning. Bhutan is a land of mountains with endless curves. It’s an undiscovered riding paradise.

The flags are on the bike of the other Australian on this ride who is a regular with TWE tours and nice bloke, very laid back.

This being a group tour I have not stopped as much as I normally do to take photos but actually the way the roads are here you really need a drone to capture them.

Excellent riding all day on mountain roads. The scenery is not as dramatic as other Himalayan countries but the roads are the best for riding enjoyment.

Very late lunch today, actually the restaurant ended up being just 5 minutes ride from our hotel.

Tonight we stay in the southern region of Bhutan on the border with India at a lower altitude and the temperature has soared into the 20’s. I have been shedding layers all afternoon and now have the air conditioner on in my room. Quite a contrast from the last few days.

Tonight’s business style hotel is comfortable. Dinner is again in the hotel and tonight just momo’s (dumplings) but I don’t mind a light dinner since we had a very large Indian lunch just a couple of hours ago.

I realise I am coming down with a cold/flu so go to a pharmacy and am offered some cold and cough syrup and Panadol and vitamin C tablets. I did bring cold and flu tabs with me but in Australia they took all the active ingredients out of them due to people buying lots and making Meth from them so they really are nothing better than headache tablets. I now feel like an idiot that I did not buy a bottle of decent cold and flu tablets when I stopped over in Japan this year, it was on my to do list but I somehow forgot.

Day seven. Feeling a little bit better this morning after an early night and long rest as well the mild weather is helpful.

Climbing up and away from the flat lands of the Indian border and the very visible air pollution in India.

Yet again another day of wonderful roads for motorcycling. Sorry not too many photos as I did start to feel more under the weather as the day progressed but Bhutan really delivers the curves, even if not feeling the best the riding here is an endless daisy chain of cornering joy.

The sun is fading by the time we arrive at the turn off to our hotel. A warning is given there are a few km of very steep gravel switchbacks and indeed the track seems to go straight up the mountain but mercifully has some rough concrete wheel tracks in parts. It’s a reasonable challenge after a long tiring day and one rider unfortunately comes off.

However it is quite some view at the top.

The climb was worth it.

Wish my room was a bit bigger (joke). TWE redeems themselves somewhat with tonight’s hotel. Dinner is also very good at this farm to table boutique establishment. The group has ordered some bottles of wine and is in high spirits but I’m unfortunately now being hit harder by the flu and go straight to bed after dinner.

Day eight. Today is a loop ride so I elect to skip it and remain at the hotel to rest.

I did get out of bed to have breakfast and captured this morning view of the valley shrouded in fog but otherwise apart from lunch spent the entire time in bed dozing.

Day nine.

This morning we ride down the switchbacks and pay a visit to the fort.

It is law that Bhutanese must dress in traditional garb when visiting any government office so our wonderful guides Kinley and Pasa have to brave the cold riding down like this (changing back after our visit). And this is the full tour group.

This fort was once the capital of Bhutan and now 300 monks migrate from the current capital to live here during winter and we could sit with them while they go about their chanting this morning. (no photo allowed)

Then we ride back to Thimphu on same road we started this tour on. Hard to make out in my photo but glimpses of high snow capped peaks could be seen on our stop this time at the same coffee shop, top of the range with the wood heater.

From here we descend into the city and have lunch at a surprisingly authentic Japanese ramen restaurant – which I enjoyed very much.

Afternoon we ride to Paro and it is the first time this tour to encounter some traffic. It is noted however we are on the busiest road in Bhutan.

Nice welcome at an excellent 4 star hotel in Paro where we will stay the next three nights.

Day ten.

Alas I am not well enough to ride today which is a real shame as this is the last day on the bikes with a route that goes over Bhutan’s highest road with views to the high snow capped mountains. I spend the day in bed dozing and am exhausted from the flu so I’m grateful the timing allowed me to rest today but wished I had seen todays view of the mountains.

I also skip tonight’s group dinner, it is to be eaten in same Indian type restaurant as last night which I don’t feel like repeating. Meanwhile we are staying in the hotel with the best restaurant in Paro… which I thought we would be eating in given TWE’s claim ‘we eat in the best places’. Anyway I enjoy a nice meal in the hotel restaurant as well I enjoy a break from eating every meal with the group.

Day eleven.

Today is a hike to the Tigers Nest, a famous monastery on the side of a mountain that has come to be a tourist image of Bhutan.

It is an early start 6.30 and I am determined not to miss this however when I see the scale of the hike I immediately realise I have grossly underestimated the difficulty and know I cannot make it in my current condition. The monastery sits at 3120m and way above the start of the trail. I took the mini bus there with everyone but quickly acknowledged this was foolish for me thus reluctantly I returned to the hotel and again spent the day in bed.

Left is my glimpse of the Tigers Nest and right is the classic view.

I am glad I tried and saw for myself it was impossible rather than just take the guides advice and been wondering.

Tonight’s farewell group dinner is finally eaten in the hotel restaurant. There shouldn’t be any cost cutting on a tour of this price.

Day twelve.

Departure day.

I feel a little better for todays flight back to Thailand where I will stay a week and be able to obtain further medication (update; getting back to sea level helped me as well did warm weather but I ended up needing antibiotics and am still in recovery back in Australia)

It is a shame I missed three days of this tour but I still got to ride most of the country.

I highly recommend riding Bhutan. The capital city is very small with no insane traffic to negotiate and just a few km out the roads are already enjoyable. Bhutan roads are 99% sealed with just few places under repair. There are no corner advisory speed signs but surveying is predictable with very few surprises allowing an easy flowing ride. Drivers are well behaved – so different to most of Asia. No crazy passing or speeding or aggressive behaviour.

The entire country is super clean and tidy, there are people manicuring the roads everywhere and zero litter or fires burning so the air is clear. Bhutan is actually a carbon negative country – exporting its clean hydro power to India. I think you will enjoy riding here, it is literally all mountains and curves. Once in the countryside there are few tourists and school children wave to foreigners on motorcycles. There is as of writing no invasion of shopping malls full of global brands or fast food chains.

And a moto tour here need not be expensive like mine because I have found another way for you. You can contact Pasa who was the lead guide of my tour and is the manager of Bhutan Tours and Travels as well as the owner of those Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycles we rode. He can arrange for you a ride a RE Himalayan around Bhutan with a personal moto guide (you cannot travel solo) as well obtain your entry visa and any other arrangements of route and hotels. The price is far less than joining a tour (no affiliation).

Leaving Bhutan the air is so clear with unlimited visibility then on the way to Bangkok the flight stopped in Kolkata with some of the worst air pollution I have seen. Visibility was maybe a few hundred metres, almost like fog. Taking off I could see a huge mountain of rubbish burning and the toxic smoke from it engulfed the city.

I’ve been fortunate to have now seen a little of the Himalaya’s from five different countries and my rides in each of those have been some of my very best experiences. It really is an incredible part of the world.

This may be my last ride involving high altitudes as it does seem to affect me more than I was willing to previously admit. Falling ill once or twice could be coincidence but now three times seems conclusive. I still want to ride route 318 in Western Chengdu but unless I can find a way to ward off getting ill this could be the end of my high altitude travel. If an opportunity comes up to ride that road then I’d certainly reach out to medical professionals for advice and try go.

But otherwise apart from Tibet I have no destinations left that I would need to join a group tour again which I think is best for me. Bhutan was nice but if this post comes across a little negative then for sure I prefer riding solo and was getting tired of the group after the first week. However despite that and falling ill this was still a good ride and I’m very glad I had the chance to complete it.