- South Korea Motorcycle Tour - May 15, 2026
- Japan – Kyushu - May 1, 2026
- Adventures on Borrowed Time - April 17, 2026
Part One
I’ve tried a couple of times previously to ride South Korea.
In 2018 while living in Japan I booked myself and my Yamaha FJR1300 on the overnight ferry from Shimonoseki to Busan however bureaucracy meant I never went and instead toured Tsushima Island which is located so close I could see the South Korean mainland.
If I had managed to get on that ferry in 2018 it would have been a difficult time. A fellow moto blogger I used to follow in Japan went but had difficulties processing the export/import of his motorcycle then when eventually on Korean roads had lot’s of problems with navigation and wound up often lost or on the toll roads where motorcycles are banned causing him endless headaches.
Then in 2020 a scooter shop in Seoul had started offering a Honda CRF250 for rent to foreigners so I was going to try do small 4 day test ride but Covid arrived and everything shutdown. In hindsight I would have had navigation problems still then if I had made that trip.
South Korea remained on my bucket ride list for years until I basically gave up on riding it. However with time everything has fallen into place. Bike rentals are now available. A solution to the navigation exists and some suggested routes have been shared.
There is still no Google maps for South Korea (but the government this year is preparing to allow Google access). However tourists can now use Korean map software NAVER in English and it has a setting to change vehicle type to motorcycle to avoid toll roads. Hotels are now widely listed on the big reservation sites and their are now English apps for foreigners to book taxis.
I’m not really sure if South Korea is a good motorcycle riding destination. Ride reports are almost non existent. Feedback varies wildly. Only one way to find out.
I have booked a Suzuki V-Strom 650 from KMR Korean Motorcycle Rental. Also the shop has some route suggestions in Naver Maps so I have based my tour on their 9 day route with a few changes of my own.
After my tour of Kyushu I flew from Fukuoka to Seoul. I spent few days relaxing in my hotel writing up the Kyushu ride report not really going out much.
I’ve visited Seoul once before on a stopover to somewhere which I now cannot remember. Frankly I don’t like big cities or the usual tourist stuff like museums or galleries nor am I a foodie with a list of must visit restaurants and no surprise I do not follow the wildly popular K-Pop or K-Drama. Instead I tried some night time street photography which I am a total noob at with a new camera that I shall post about separately and generally just lay about resting for the challenge of riding out of Seoul.
Day One Seoul – Gongju
Not off to a good start as the taxi app for tourists doesn’t understand the shop address in English (◔_◔).
I waste a lot of time on this then give up on that app and try just the shop name in Uber app since I see some taxi’s have an Uber sticker on them (but there is no Uber ride share here). Bingo the shop is found but then it won’t accept payment – of course because no Uber here. Eventually I download another app and set it up for credit card payment and at last get a taxi not arriving the rental shop until 10.00am.
No problem today is a short route so I need not be in any bother about leaving late. Paperwork is done and few road rules explained then since I had everything ready and am kind of an expert at packing bikes now I lay out my non slip mat on rear seat, strap bag on and place my small bag in the top box then earplugs, helmet, gloves and I’m on my way in no time.
A first for me of helmet matching the bike. Photo by KMR.
Getting out of Seoul takes about 1 hour in fairly heavy traffic. I’m glad it is a cool day as lots of time spent sitting at lights but this lets me observe how the traffic behaves and get a feel for riding on wrong side of road again.
Naver Maps does a pretty good job, only weak thing is the onscreen lane guidance for what lane to remains in (not for turning) is weak as it will show all three or four lanes as ok but then the far left and far right lanes often become turn only and thus I have to dive back into middle suddenly.
Drivers are what I might deem low to medium aggressive. More than Japan’s mostly benign drivers and less than China – just to compare to South Korea’s neighbours. Seoul is a mega city so obviously people are all in a hurry and impatient and you need to factor that in then the road speed is high here as people ignore the speed limits but no bullying of bikers (so far) unlike SE Asia.
Except the bus drivers who are highly aggressive. They cut across lanes suddenly with no indicator at high speed forcing everyone to take evasive action or emergency brake and generally they make that bus Keanu was on in the movie Speed seem like a nursing home outing. The level of recklessness challenges that of the psychopaths driving Leyland busses in Sri Lanka which is something I never dreamed I’d ever be typing. Interesting side note is many busses are fuel cell hydrogen powered which is mighty impressive.
I just am taking it real easy trying to get myself up to speed figurately and literally as everyone is driving what seems like very fast to me having just come from Japan where speed limits are so low.
I am expecting that finding meals on this ride might be a bit challenging. Most restaurants seem to be BBQ places made for groups and do not accept solo dining. That’s fine as I do not want to eat Korean BBQ anyway as I since my surgery I suffer from reflux so excessive red meat and spicy food must be avoided.
Fortunately I am happy with the most simple food which is how I came to be eating cup noodles in a 7/11 today which I was pleased to find has eating area like Japan but alas no toilets. I could have wasted a lot of time riding around off the highway looking for something in the way of a bakery or coffee shop but I don’t want to make the ride harder than it need be. Cold day, hot ramen hits the spot.
The speed limit mostly is 70kph on todays four lane divided roads and I am doing about 85 so not to be too slow because the cars are doing about 100kph then slamming on the brakes just before the very frequent (every few km) fix mounted speed cameras then gassing it back up to 100 proving the cameras are waste of money. I catch them up all the time as I need not slow since bikes obviously are immune from front facing cameras. Other riders are screaming past all of us at high speed.
I’m telling myself often ‘stay right look left’. I very nearly was killed on my Colorado ride at a highway junction when I for a moment forgot where I was and looked right at the junction for oncoming cars as I would do at home or NZ or Japan then pulled out into the path of a car which would have killed me if the driver did not swerve so rapidly.
I find in recent years I am not always as focused on everything around me as I should be. Not ideal when riding a motorcycle which are themselves not inherently dangerous but are completely unforgiving of inattention and mistakes. I have been asking myself how many more of these rides in places with sometimes challenging road conditions should I do. Big question. I hope this ride in Korea might give me some direction about this.
Took frequent breaks this afternoon for coffee and just to stretch and keep myself alert. Once off the four lane roads I came upon some nice parks with spotless toilets similar to what you find in Japan.
Well the riding today was mostly just urban not much in the way of corners but the navigation went well, weather was nice and I arrived at my hotel safely to a very comfortable room so I’m calling that a success.
This is my route day one as provided by KMR with my hotel added. You can access it on Naver here. It was mostly highway and little bit more rural in the afternoon but being my first day it was fine to just get out of the city.
Tonight’s hotel is in the middle of about two dozen love hotels and many BBQ restaurants and hostess bars but it’s a nice room with undercover parking. Rather than walk around in circles another hour to no avail I return to a fast food joint I spotted earlier and then pick up a few beers for back in the hotel. Eating here is very affordable. Meal set was $7 AUD.
Day Two Gongju-Jeonju
Another fine day so gotta be happy about that.
By mid morning I feel I should get some fuel, still about half a tank but I like to fill up and then not need think about it rest of the day. First petrol station I try I give up trying to work out the method while holding phone with Google translate to screen and ride on hopeful to find a full service station. After another half hour I stop for coffee and there is a S-Oil station next door so I try self serve again.
Like Japan self serve there are a number of things asked on the screen such as are you a member, do you have some other sort of points card, I counted a couple of these hurdles to get past then you get to the select type of gas and then payment type then how much before yet another swipe your rewards or corporate card or something to clear then finally you reach the insert credit card. At least no idiot was yelling at me to put the phone away or I’ll burst into flames like idiots think in Australia.
After mostly riding urban or light industrial 4 lane divided roads this morning I’m wondering if today will have any curves when I am granted quite a few in the form of a switchback ascent to a superb viewpoint.
Then I’m back on 4 lane divided road which is elevated and almost looks like the Japanese tollway network except every now and again you come to a junction. It’s pleasant riding if a little unexciting.
I’ve been waiting for some shops or services but there is very little on these type of roads so I exit and ride into one of the towns that the highway bypasses and really cannot find anything in the way of an eatery that looks foreigner easy like a bakery or burger joint so with it already being well past lunch time I stop at a GS25 convenience store. There are no sandwiches so cup noodles again. I actually don’t mind as there are lots of new types I have not see sold in my local Korean food mart although many look too spicy. Tomorrow I hope to do better and get some sandwiches for a picnic somewhere.
After lunch I am riding more enjoyable roads with some curves and stunning Spring foliage.
Back on the four lane divided blacktop for a stretch. Quite a few other bikers out on this public holiday. Every biker waves like crazy here. Reminds me of when you go to Hokkaido and riders just about jump out of their seats waving.
Gold wings seem super popular in South Korea. Seen more new Gold Wings here today than I have in all my riding.
Another observation. 95% of cars are domestic Hyundai, Kia, Equus, Genesis (which are all Hyundai group brands) and some from KGM (formerly SSangYong) then the other 5% are European luxury cars like Benz/BMW/Audi. Very rare to see an American brand or Japanese brand and zero Chinese cars and only colours seem to be Black, White or Silver.
Bit more four lane stuff this afternoon before I am rewarded with another short mountain climb to an excellent view point.
Then the nicest part of today riding wise was reserved for the afternoon. A route that went around a man made lake which was really enjoyable sweeping corners with beautiful gardens all the way.
Then last but not least a lovely ride through an avenue of deciduous trees similar to what has been planted a couple of places in Japan. Now lime green with fresh leaves but come Autumn these trees turn bright orange and look spectacular.
Better route today than yesterday. Still a bit too much 4 lane divided road but with a bit of tweaking you might improve that. Link to route.
I arrive to my hotel and find there is a festival nearby. Today is Childrens Day. I was not aware when booking the bike rental that this was a four day long weekend in South Korea. There is a kind of recreated old town/folk area with many artist shops and people renting period costumes for photos like I saw on my China moto tour.
A few restaurants look interesting but it’s all too crowded for me so I end up retreating to sit by the river a while then call it a day.
Day Three Jeonju-Sacheon
Today is possibly a big ride but the weather again is fine and I get on the road a little earlier.
I have modified the shops route to detour via extra mountain passes I found mentioned on a Visit Korea tourism site.
First another terrific sweeping curve lake side road.
Then my first pass which is excellent bit of road. Below is taken on the way up.
The descent is also enjoyable.
Then my next pass starts with a series of switchbacks.
There is a break then a bit further starts a second much higher pass which was terrific riding.
Viewpoint at the top is a nice spot for a picnic lunch and today I had some sandwiches and a drink with me.
Very peaceful now everyone is back at work. I am the only person here!
Nice riding after here on two lane rural roads.
From here on the riding became superb on a sweeping corner road that followed a river.
After a beautiful ride along the valley my route then takes me on a twisty mountain climb where I got a completely car free run a brilliant bit of tar and was almost punching the air when I reached the observation point at the top. Oh yeah there is some good riding to be had in South Korea.
Unfortunately no good photos of the climb as it was all closed in but the descent was little more open.
Passed through a small city and spotted this train pedestrian bridge and the street lighting is train crossing themed.
Not sure what the story is but I sure was curious and then I ride through a lovely valley and all the bus stops along the way look like small train stations.
Today is fantastic riding, yet another pass which I also got a car free run up and down. Woot!
All day is good roads only last 40 odd km is on four lane divided roads.
Here is a link to my route for today.
My hotel is again surrounded by love hotels and hostess bars, the hotel actually has a gentlemen’s club attached to it. Not sure if foreigners can enter these here or banned like in Japan. Anyway I can’t be bothered to find out, rather spend my money on a big pepperoni pizza and decent bottle of red I found in a shop while wandering around.
Day Four Sacheon-Daegu
I have a route in two parts for today starting with a ride down to the southern coastal area as Naver only allows a few waypoints.
It’s all four lane divided highway until I reach the ocean then a short coastal ride before I arrived at a different place than I expected.
Originally I was to arrive at a cable car that runs up a hill but I am at Cello Island observatory. Probably did not save my changes in Naver map correctly. (I fixed it on the route I’ve linked)
This area looks a bit like Japanese coast but there is a lot of traffic and I am glad I did not make this southern coast more of a focus on my ride. It is a hazy morning, more than my photo suggests so I decided to skip the cable car.
Back on four lane divided highway. By now I have partly assimilated into the Korean way. I’m doing 90 in the 60 zones but only 100 in the 80 zones where cars are doing 110.
A lot of highway today. At one point in todays route I feared I had wandered onto the expressway where bikes are banned as I passed a sign which I thought was no motorcycles. All the highways here look like Japanese toll roads. They are elevated and have long tunnels and use white on green signage and green paint on overhead flyovers same as I am used to seeing in Japan. Anyway it was a false alarm.
I rode on well past lunch waiting for a highway rest area but these are rare so eventually I exited to a small town. Each town here seems to have a small community park so I knew I’d find a place to have a rest.
This system works for me here as it does in Japan. Either get some sandwiches at a convenience store for picnic lunch or have something in the store.
I made a detour off the original highway route this afternoon and as before this provides improved riding.
One thing I am encountering on these two lane roads is a lot of speed bumps. I guess with everyone speeding it is one way to force people to slow down. Coming into any village there is usually a series of them then more before you exit. The Naver girl knows where they are and tells me via my headset as well informs me of each speed camera including special notice for ones that are rear facing which I slow for.
It is becoming clear to me that the routes from KMR link some nice passes but Naver like Google navigation wants to route via highways in between. If Naver has a street view on it’s web interface then you could perhaps look at what roads are two lane Vs four lane and possibly improve parts of this route i.e. going to the seaside and back need to be on highways as it is too urbanised to ride minor roads but then riding north could perhaps get off the 4 lane stuff earlier than I did.
My detour provides another terrific mountain pass before I make my way into a fairly big regional city.
Part one of todays route.
Part two of todays route.
Staying in a nice hotel tonight in centre of city with tourist friendly easy dining options.
I’m going to break this ride report in half here as WordPress doesn’t like too many photos and I still have five more days of riding to share. Sneak preview – the roads and scenery and riding in South Korea just gets better and better!
See you in part two soon.
