South Korea Motorcycle Tour – continued

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Warren

Hello, I’m Warren, writer and photographer of Motorcycle Paradise, a free and independent website about motorcycle travel. There is no sponsored content here, just my personal stories, written simply, of riding my bucket list of best roads in the world.

Latest posts by Warren (see all)

• South Korea Motorcycle Tour – continued - May 22, 2026
• South Korea Motorcycle Tour - May 15, 2026
• Japan – Kyushu - May 1, 2026

Part Two

Day five Daegu-Andong

Another fine day. A little cooler so I break out my merino base layer which is one of many items I carry on every tour and it often comes in handy.

It seems everyone in South Korea lives in high rise apartments clumped together. There are very few houses here, I mean like literally I can ride through a regional city and there are zero houses. Shops, office blocks and clusters of high rise apartment blocks. Only the farmers are in houses.

Some nice roads this morning along another man made lake.

And another photo for my collection of spotless toilets on tour, here nestled amongst the impossibly bright green new leaves of Spring.

The roads this morning were a mix of four lane divided and another nice lake side route which I did not capture.

Looked for sandwiches at two shops but neither had any however I noticed some convenience stores have kimbap. This looks like sushi roll but is sesame oil seasoned rice with various fillings rolled in dried seaweed. You do not eat it with soy sauce but it is very tasty.

Two Can-am spyders arrived during my lunch break inside a CU convenience (which I rate better than 7/11 in South Korea). I wave hello to the riders who are getting iced coffee then I am invited to sit and have a chat.

The age of the riders is 79 and 80 years. I speak no Korean but we manage with some broken English. They both have been living alone for many years. The ‘younger rider’ as he likes to refer to himself, said he had a son he ‘lost’. He moved to Busan for work and stopped visiting. We all agreed that being single can get lonely but on the flip side it is less hassle and we can go riding anytime we want.

They ended up both on Can-am’s because of weak knees no longer able to reliably hold a two wheel bike up at the lights or get a big bike off the side stand. Which made me think back to the group of Can-am’s I saw on my Kyushu ride and those were all old guys also. Now I see how these spyder’s make sense.

Chatting to these guys today was inspiring. To see them out riding and having fun at 79 & 80 years has made me reconsider my recent ideas that perhaps I will soon approach an age where my focus and reaction time will fall a little short for these overseas riding adventures.

Riding a motorcycle demands you pay attention to many things every second, your life depends upon it. There are other nice activities that don’t require this level of concentration but I don’t find them interesting. I like how riding makes me focus and be in the now.

I want to be like these guys. My medical condition will likely reduce my time but I want to just keep riding now like these two fine gentlemen.

The observatory was a small hike however in motorcycle boots borderline too far so I simply stopped at a viewpoint on the way back down and I think this is a better composition than just the mountains would have been.

About half way down, action cam fish eye lens has flattened the landscape.

Some more nice roads in the afternoon around another lake.

Where I came upon a impressive pedestrian suspension bridge (below). Built just for tourism serves no other purpose.

My ETA blew out today from the extended lunch chat but still an early enough finish as the routes here are modest. You could easily extend each day another 50 km or shift more of the route onto two lane rural roads then the riding time would better match the distance.

Staying in what clearly is a love hotel tonight despite it not being stated as one on booking dot com. However like in Japan these hotels are excellent value with large rooms.

This is my route today, you can access it here.

Day Six Andong-Chungdu

My luck with the weather continues. Early May is clearly the best time here same as it is for Japan.

I am still not entirely used to the high speed of drivers here. Sometimes I pull over to let cars pass me or flick on my indicator and move to side of road and wave cars past. I’m also wary of cars not giving way to me when making an unprotected left turn (no turn arrow) at an intersection. Had a couple or cars pull out while seeming to look straight at me forcing me to stop mid intersection. You legally turn right on a red light here.

Almost every day I’ve seen a small fender bender but checking the road fatalities rate it is still low compared to the other countries in Asia and merely a fraction of the rate in Vietnam and Thailand which are two of the highest in the world.

Some nice curves in the morning briefly as well some pleasant two lane country roads.

Came upon another of these pedestrian suspension bridges to nowhere. Japan also likes to build these.

Lovely riding this morning.

Managed to find some sandwiches at 2nd shop I tried. But then no nice picnic spots on todays route. However I ended up finding a covered area to take a break in a small village below.

Small towns are proud of their regions produce.

Oodles of nice riding after lunch (there is a word you don’t see much now). Some small low mountain passes and then another lake side road followed by this superb road below that traces a rocky river through a national park. Excellent!

The shops route next takes me on some four lane road briefly and I can see a view deck up high on a ridge across other side of a river. The route turns off and I think goes there but the area is total gridlock as also some sort of theme park here. It is too hot for me to sit in the traffic so I skip it. The exit goes underneath via this colourful tunnel.

Easily the nicest road tunnel I have ridden.

Following the tunnel was this above.

After re joining the main route I am on a superb riding road besides another man made lake. First a road like Burringbah Range northern NSW which was a favourite of mine when living there then a sweeping corner road along the lake.

In South Korea my tip is plan your routes along side of every man made lake – they all are superb riding roads!

Today is Saturday and there are plenty of bikes out. Again I see many Gold Wings as well the BMW K1600B is popular. Those two bikes are competitors in the luxury touring segment.

I’m actually considering something like one of them myself. Whilst a BMW R1300GS is more versatile and possibly the best bike I have ridden, I live 3000km round trip north of any interesting roads. I love living in my friendly beach side community but there is nowhere to ride locally and whilst I’m often reminded that Australia has many gravel roads it’s a moot point if you don’t like riding them. No, if I get another bike it will have to be something that provides such effortless long distance riding that I would not hesitate to pack a bag and head off despite the long highway ride south.

I’m sure everyone is familiar with the Suzuki V-Strom 650 XT I am riding here. It always was and remains a great mid size ADV bike. Engine is delightful, so much better than the Honda CB500X or the Kove 525. Better than the more powerful CB650 inline four which is too coarse. I’d love try the new V-Strom with Suzuki’s 800cc parallel twin.

I have not rented a V-Strom for years because the buffeting from the factory screen was the worst I had experienced however this XT model has an adjustable Givi screen which works brilliantly.

Spoke wheels but thankfully tubeless rims. Huge negative of the Tenere 700 and Trans Alp 750 is using tubes. Besides the risk of a blowout fixing a flat with tubes is a big job. I will never rent one for that reason.

Only gripe I have is the gearshift is very stiff and engagement is not positive but it is a rental, Suzuki gearboxes are normally fine.

Here is a link to my route for day six.

Day Seven Chungdu-TaeBaek

Another fine day!

The mornings route returns back over yesterdays afternoon road along the lake and the ‘Asian Burringbah’ road which I enjoy again.

Todays distance is modest like yesterday and I find I have about an hour I need to fill in to not be arriving at my hotel before I can check in.

I quite like this easy pace touring, reminds me of riding Japan. Lots of time to stop at anything and linger over coffee. Makes the days less demanding and keeps me more alert.

It’s Sunday and lots of bikers are out. A group of KTM Super Dukes go screaming past me. I’m doing 85 in a 70 zone and the bikes must have been doing 180.

I get a nice car free ride over another small range that also reminds me of Burringbah in northern NSW except more colourful. Then nice curves all morning.

A side trip on todays route to another observatory. It is a fairly tight twisty climb and I am surprised there are no other bikes but then I find the road gated half way so perhaps that is reason or they just prefer the highspeed roads.

At the base I spotted a nice spot for todays picnic lunch.

Cool breeze blows over me as I watch the butterflies flutter over the flowering shrubs. Feeling at ease with myself sitting here which is priceless.

Cruising through some farm backroads and scenic two lane roads before returning to four lane divided where I see – more Gold Wings out on this fine Sunday. Never seen so many before in any other country.

The four lane highway runs though some high mountains and is quite scenic (above). The oncoming lanes are positioned down lower to the left. I actually go past my hotel to do a loop back over that mountain and through the wind farm.

Last thing today is exit the highway to ride over that mountain I mentioned which is a excellently surveyed pass on the ascent then quite narrow and tight going down.

This view point (below) along the way. Then I backtrack to my hotel for tonight in the mountains.

When booking hotels for this tour I could not find a vacancy in TaeBaek where I exited the highway and was concerned if there would be shops where I found a vacancy but a big 7/11 next to the hotel as well a CU and a 24hr Easy Mart. In Asia it’s very unlikely to be in a town with nothing unlike I have experienced on tour in Europe.

I got a decent obento for tonight’s dinner. I am still learning but picked up the 7/11’s/CU’s here mostly have self service microwave tucked away in a corner somewhere which I never noticed initially. This makes my riding here very easy as I now simply can heat up a meal and bring back to my room.

Here is a link to my route day seven.

Day Eight TaeBaek-Sokcho

I’m riding north today on a route I designed. The rental shops suggested route leaves the mountains to ride the coast, but that is all urban with lots of traffic. I understand it is to enjoy the ocean but I live at the beach so it is not a novelty for me so I have chosen to stay inland and hopefully on curves.

The sun was out but then disappeared by mid morning and it becomes overcast but my route so far today is excellent. No 4 lane highway, all two lane riding through farms and forest.

Then I am delighted to ride an excellent pass, highest of the tour at just over 1000m and a superb bit of road.

The weather turned cold and I had to don my mid layer fleece which caused a commotion in rural farming area with cars literally stopping to see what is this foreigner doing.

But then todays route just continued to be excellent, the best roads of the tour so far despite the grey skies.

I felt like something to warm me up as the temperature had plummeted to 12 degrees. Then right on cue I come upon a E-Mart in a small rural town where I am an oddity that each visitor to the shop is talking about.

After lunch nice I enjoy sweeping roads along scenic valleys. The light is too poor for photography but just fine for riding.

Spotted a war memorial and stopped. The information booth was unfortunately void of info. About the 38th parallel from what I could gather.

This afternoon has been a superb ride. I made todays route with just a few scraps of info about there being that 1000m range but otherwise just picking what I thought might be good roads.

The bike was fitted with what appeared to be similar to Michelin Anakee ADV tyres and they move around heaps on these grooves cut for ice in the roads on hills and bridges. Japan uses grooves a lot also but I barely noticed them there riding my FJR1300 wearing Dunlop RoadSmart4 tyres.

I am certain after today more good motorcycle roads of the style I like are here to be discovered. But I am enjoying even the four lane roads regardless. Riding any new road is always better than riding same old road you know.

Staying at a seaside resort city tonight. Did a walk about but the local mall was closing. Another obento dinner this time from a CU across the street which had microwave.

A quick update on my DJI Action 5. The stick on red shutter button you see has solved the trouble I had of pressing the shutter button. With this fitted it is super easy and I have had no need to use the remote. Sourced from Aliexpress for just a few dollars.

Bring your own visor cleaning cloth in zip lock bag or use things like the Devil Wipes here as there is nothing at the self serve gas stations to clean a visor or windscreen.

Here is a link to my route day eight.

Day Nine Sokcho-Seoul

My last day.

Feeling a bit sad strapping on my bag this morning knowing this will be last day I do that for awhile. South Korea combined with my Japan ride feels like I have been on tour ages, which is nice. I am in the groove now. Got my routines down pat for loading and unloading and setting everything out in a new hotel room each night then packing everything up in same order. I feel I could just just keep riding.

Yesterdays cold has gone and today is sunny and warm.

I’m riding a little of the coast road to begin and can confirm you want to avoid this if coming here as it is all urbanised with lots of traffic lights.

Turning inland the riding immediately improves and the traffic fades away.

But then things become amazing. I am riding what is easily the most scenic mountain road of the tour.

Lovely ride up that valley with rugged rocky outcrops.

From the top there is a no exit/dead end side road which is a lovely ride down into another valley then I have a very pleasing car climb back to the top.

Lovely roads then continue all the way down the western side.

From here I have picked a route based loosely on advise from a friend that the roads that run to the north near the DMZ are nice. Like yesterday I have no idea what to expect and like yesterday the riding is just superb but you must be getting bored with the helmet POV camera shots by now so how about some totem poles instead. Not sure why these poles with Japanese on them like I’ve seen in Tottori are here in the mountains of Korea near the DMZ.

Last lunch on tour and very pleased to find a top spot for a picnic with shaded table and chairs and toilets. There are many small glass bells hanging from the trees and they occasionally chime when there is a breeze.

Another item I always carry is small hand towel. In Japan everyone has many of these. In summer it is so humid that you need to be wiping your face often when not in air conditioning. But they also are handy for the biker. In rain if your hands are wet and need to dry them to get gloves on or using rural toilets with no hand dryer. Above is my latest one with the Kumamoto bear I got while riding there.

Then it is more excellent riding.

I realise I am in the DMZ as there are lots of military vehicles.

I arrive at Peace Dam.

From the dam the route is called Peace Road and is the best riding of the entire tour. Beautifully surveyed consistent and predictable radius corners with good surface that go on and on. Just one car which I could pass instantly. Lovely stuff.

Stopped for a call of nature at another clean country village toilet. I note that they all play classical music fairly loud while you are inside.

Those huge concrete blocks are to stop military vehicles in an invasion. There are charges that can be triggered to make them fall onto the road. I pass a few of these in places like exiting a tunnel as this was above.

Making my way out of the mountains I was looking out for a war memorial that I am sure I had as a waypoint. I stop for iced coffee and to check maps and hear what I first think is thunder but soon realise it is artillery fire! Obviously just doing drills but a little unsettling.

Alas I see I have missed the Korean war memorial which I perhaps went past before lunch somehow. Oh well I am here for the riding and todays roads have been superb so no complaints.

I ponder riding more of this DMZ region but my ETA for the bike shop is already showing as 4.30pm and I have to ride into the mega city of Seoul so I am out of time.

Mostly 4 lane divided highway so I decide “when in Rome” and join the luxury saloons in the fast lane doing 110 in what is mostly a 70 posted road. Closer to Seoul the crazier it gets. Highway busses were passing all of us, I speed checked them doing 125! Did I mention there are traffic lights and junctions on these secondary highways. Kind of scary. But then I find busses everywhere scary. Just one person in charge of many lives with zero safety systems compared to trains or planes.

The traffic became heavy from about 35km out then from about 25km it’s a series of rolling slow spots. Last 7km was a total grind with often lights not timed making progress very slow while sweltering at traffic lights often needing two changes of lights to be able to make a turn. I had my jacket completely unzipped trying to get some air. Good thing I hail from the tropics. Still the ride in overall was easier than riding into Tokyo usually was even without access to the toll roads here. Long as you are patient and accept you are going to be stuck at lights a bit you will be fine. It’s nothing like the intense riding required in cities of SE Asia.

Filled up at an S-Oil station next door then quick and easy return of the bike. No hesitation in recommending you rent from KMR or that you ride South Korea. It is a terrific riding destination. Even the simple routes for this my first tour here were enjoyable and all that is needed is a little tweaking. I will try doing that in the future and then post a revised 9 day route in my Good Motorcycle Roads section of the blog but even as the routes stand now start planning your trip here.

Here is a link to my route for day 9.

Got a taxi using K-Ride app but ended up at wrong hotel, ha-ha. Turns out there are two from same chain in same suburb. Anyway got there in the end.

Couple of days in Seoul to relax. I did not do a DMZ bus tour because you no longer can go to the military base with the blue room where you walk around a table and are momentarily in the North.

Instead I did some work on the first half of this ride report, little bit more night time street photography with a new camera. Big cities are a good place for that and for eating nice food. I found here, like in Japan, the basement of big department stores are where you find fantastic food halls.

In broken English my server told me Danger Danger, hot hot, and pointed to the sauce. Oh boy yes it is. The robot from lost in space waving his arms hot. Nuclear fission hot. I wish I could still eat spicy but after my operation it’s off limits for me.

It’s indeed been a great trip but after a month of figuring out a new hotel shower tap procedure every night and looking at my ever expanding waist from 30 buffet breakfasts, I am ready to go home.

You can read the first part of this ride here:

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