- The Arctic Circle - July 30, 2025
- Stealing Speed - July 26, 2025
- The Midnight Sun - July 19, 2025
Norway Motorcycle Tour. Part Two.
Already past the city of Trondheim I continue north on my motorcycle tour of Norway. (Part One here)
Bronnoysund to Mo I Rana
Today’s route seems short but has three ferries which I was concerned could blow out my ETA.
First ferry and the wait is 40 minutes. It is 30 degrees with no shade. For the locals this is an extreme weather event, comparable to when in the 40’s in Australia. The women have taken their tops off and are sunbathing in their bra’s.
The scenery is changing as I ride north to more baren mountains (which are much higher than this wide angle lens suggests).
About 20 minutes wait at the second port but this one had facilities and seating in the shade. It is a long sailing nearly an hour however also a larger ship plying this route with a kiosk so I could enjoy lunch on board.
This sailing is quite scenic.
While I stop to buy more drinks I’ll take a moment to mention I am using My Route App for my navigation this tour.
MRA is terrific but power hungry. I have a Oppo A40 phone just for navigation which has a 5100mAh battery but still it is flat after 4 hours. It is a large and fairly bright screen so that may be part of the issue. Apart from couple of small glitches earlier MRA has been providing excellent highly detailed navigation, especially good advance lane guidance which Google maps is weak at. I’d confidently use it anywhere going forward.
I’ve been testing this simple phone mount my last few tours. It cost just a few dollars online and I thought I’d try it and if not good enough I also have a knockoff Quadlock I got from AliExpress but actually this simple silicon rubber item works fine no way the phone can come out.
I did not ride the Atlantic Road on my way north. Every biker advised me it’s over rated and just a few km. I probably would have still gone for a look regardless but it was a lengthy detour from my preferred route that would require I add an extra day when I know I will ride some curved bridges in Lofoten anyway.
I was feeling confident of an reasonably early finish today when I arrived at the third port and here my original concerns came true. There is over an hour before the next ferry, it’s stinking hot and I have foolishly used up all my water. A rookie mistake from someone very experienced to riding in high heat.
I have no option but to abandon the remainder of todays coast route and backtrack about 10 km to where I saw a signpost to the main northern highway that runs inland.
This alternate route is still scenic and gets me into my hotel fairly quick but alas again there is no aircon but at least a small fridge with some cold water which I enjoy then a cold shower.
Mo I Rana to Bodo
With another fine day forecast I set off to ride more of the Norwegian coastal route 17.
I was not expecting anything too dramatic however todays ride turns into one of the most scenic days of motorcycle riding I have ever done.
First some photos leaving Mo I Rana riding to ferry number one.
You know photo’s cannot express the true scale which is much more dramatic, especially these 155 degree action cams. I felt like I was riding through the grand canyon here.
At todays ferry number one I learned I am supposed to ride around all cars at the port if on a bike as they load first. I just joined the queue and was boxed in here then the ferry actually filled but the ferry master got me on just as they were ready to sail which was fortunate or I would have had a long wait.
Very scenic lunch today on this one hour sailing during which I crossed the Arctic Circle on my way north which unlike on the main inland highway is not announced here.
I did not stop between ferry one and ferry two as it was only about 25km and I did not want to miss what I presumed would be a connecting service but turned out they are not timed. I rode past more stunning scenery but at least I managed to grab a couple of shots from the Osmo Action 5 which does fairly well considering I am not able to frame the shot and it’s wide angle lens flattens scenery.
I have more useable photos from the Osmo on this ride than I ever got using my previous 360 Theta cam or lens only cameras so it’s a keeper and I think my results will continue to improve. Every shot needs a crop and while the 40MP resolution assists the resulting crops are soft which suggests these are still just frame grabs, albeit far superior to GoPro grabs. I will write a separate post about the camera later.
After ferry number two I thought well it can’t get better today but Norway says ‘hold my beer’.
Looks like a small glacier with blue ice on the mountain across the lake.
There are new incredible scenes around every corner on this road. Do click on some images to see them full screen if on a PC or iPad.
All this and the road is nice riding too, sweeping corners with low traffic. The challenge is trying to keep my eyes on where I am going with all these jaw dropping scenes.
Did I mention the unbelievable clear weather 🤩.
I am just posting a little of the scenery on this stupendously good route. After taking a photo I’d put my gloves on and set off telling myself I really need to do some miles then 10 minutes later be saying OMG out loud in my helmet and looking for a place to stop again 😀
The Norwegian coastal route 17. Put it on your bucket list. One of the most amazing days of riding I have ever experienced.
Bodo to Leknes
Today I sail to the Lofoten islands.
If you make this journey in peak summer then book the ferry way in advance. There is a huge queue of cars without a reservation sitting at the port (but the sun doesn’t set so the ferry runs 24hrs).
I talk to the other bikers at the port who like me are all dressed in rider gear unsuitable for the hot weather. All are on their 2nd or 3rd trip here and say it was never like this on their previous rides. We are all very lucky.
It’s a 3 hour sailing and I manage to get a little rest before the islands loom up from the ocean.
Of course the scale in real life is double the height you see here. I feel like I am approaching one of those uninhabited islands you might see on a David Attenborough show. Jagged mountains stretch far off to the right.
It’s an overused term, but the scenery here is jaw dropping. Again the lens flattens the landscape but look at the buildings in distance above and below to perhaps get a better sense.
Zero air pollution here and perfect weather create visibility the likes of which I don’t think I have ever seen before.
Even the colour of the ocean here is amazing.
I have deliberately avoided buying a drone despite knowing they can capture amazing images of locations. My reason is that I want to record and remember things as I experienced them. This blog is just my travel diary. That said here is a drone image from Google Maps taken above this bridge just to try give you an idea of how totally bonkers the scenery here is.
I’m staying in Leknes tonight in a fairly basic hotel but with an eye watering peak season price and they have double charged my credit card. The manager says it has been fixed but it hasn’t. Oh well stay calm Warren and let the credit card provider work it out later.
Despite the high cost of hotels and food this tour it will still come way below if I had joined an organised motorcycle tour. I looked at a couple of tours and they were $1000-1500 a day with limited ride days only visiting the south.
So glad I made this an independent ride. Imagine coming all the way to ride Norway and finding out later you missed all this in the north. Norwegians all speak English and Norway is totally cashless. I have some Euro on me (and my emergency Aussie dollars I always carry) but it is a very easy country to visit.
Bikers I chatted to yesterday tell me Senja island a little further north of Lofoten is also spectacular so keep that in mind if you are planning to come here.
Also keep in mind to avoid the brand Rev’it. My new expensive laminated gloves from them lasted 10 days before the inner liner separated.
That should be a middle finger pointed up to Rev’it. Oh well glad I bought my old Rough & Road gloves as backup. Buy Held gloves folks. Ok, time for a beer.
Lofoten
Today I will ride a loop around the northern part of Lofoten then this evening I will board a ship for three nights that will take me all the way south to Bergen. So I have a relatively small route with all day to explore.
Having no need to push on I turned around and back track then diced with death crossing the highway as Norwegians sped by in their silent electric cars to get this shot and am pleased I did however I also wish I had one of my former cameras on me. I’d love to see how much more detail a good lens might resolve in this crystal clear air
Then I saw a sign indicating a point of interest so I turn off my route to explore and by sheer chance found this incredible view. My favourite of the entire trip.
First of all I stopped where the cars are in the foreground (where I took a selfie I shared to Instagram) then I looked up and saw a road. At the entrance was a sign no motorcycles, yeah as if I follow rules, but making my way up the road in very short order it deteriorates into deep loose stones. I gas it and use some old moto-x skills to stay upright but then afterwards realise oh crap I have to get back down.
It’s steep and too loose for a heavy bike so I just make my way down step by step with the front digging in or the rear spinning and I nearly drop it a couple of times but eventually get through the deep stuff albeit now with my shirt soaked in perspiration despite it being a cool morning…
Guess I’ll consider road signs a little more in future. But the shot was worth it.
I chose to make today’s route short as I thought that there was good chance it might be bad weather but I have been granted an impossibly warm fine day for this part of the world.
Above: I walked out to a viewpoint and when returning to the bike a guy comes over and is talking to me in German because I am on a bike with a Hamburg plate. I point to my Australian flag on jacket and say sorry I don’t speak much German.
Anyway the guy tells me he is on the tourist bus nearby but dreams of riding free like I am then he says may your angel look after you riding back to Hamburg, or least that is what I think he was saying with my forgotten high school German. A touching comment that will long stay with me.
Don’t ever underestimate this moto travel stuff. Many people never get to live their dreams.
I turn down a remote road and arrive at the spot above. I have loads of spare time and with nobody around I decide to stay and take an extended break for an hour or so.
I have water and some fruit so am set. I lie back in the shade and watch the occasional silver fish jump into the air from the crystal clear water.
This little jaunt around Norway completes my bucket list. I’m overjoyed to have been given a second chance post my cancer and perfect weather for this special moment. Achieving this is something I dreamed about long ago but never dared think I actually might one day achieve.
Letting my mind ponder on all the rides I have done there are a couple of places I want to ride again but not as many as I thought there would be. I’m not interested in dealing with all the challenges I faced on my rides when younger. Then I also want to do a couple of organised moto tours to destinations I otherwise would not bother with – more for the cultural experience and to meet people rather than the actual riding.
Apart from that, health permitting, in future perhaps my riding will pivot back to domestic moto touring.
Well first lets see how I go at my next PET scan, I’ll get that in August hopefully.
The break here was just what I needed. (I was sitting just off to right of this photo). However it’s now time I was making my way towards the port.
One last stop at one of the artist inspired view windows that are dotted around Lofoten. Looking north towards Senja, then I make my way into Svolvaer and grab a bite for dinner and try find where to board my ship.
Svolvaer – Bergen by ship.
I board the Hurtigruten long distance ferry/cruise ship this evening. I received no boarding information and there is no signage at the port. Fortunately I meet other bikers Pete and Jenny who have used the service already.
I have a nice cabin and enjoy to take a shower and unpack my things knowing I can rest up next couple of days. I made the choice to BYO my drinks and snacks then dine in the ships cafes as the optional drinks and buffet restaurant packages were insanely expensive for what is a short sailing.
I spend my days relaxing around the ship editing ride photos and writing up part one of my Norway ride report. Everyone seems to have purchased the buffet package and a queue forms before each meal sitting. The meals at the cafe and bistro are heaps big enough for me.
I enjoyed the rest and I needed it. I almost dropped the KTM on the last day in Lofoten due to fatigue, mostly from the heat and not sleeping well. However motorcycle touring to ship cruising is a too big leap for me.
My friends gushed ‘you are going to love cruising Warren” Ahm, not really. I’ve reached the point where I want more comfort travelling but based on this trip the only future cruising I’d choose would be on a Gold Wing.
Bergen to Oystese
The ferry docks in Bergen at 2.45pm but everyone had to leave their cabins at 10.00am which was little inconvenient but gave me a chance to chat with Pete and Jenny which was nice.
Short ride this afternoon to Oystese. I am staying in a beautiful hotel on the fjord but alas no air conditioning or fan and it is 30 degrees with the room facing the western sun. I can’t actually use my room – it’s simply too hot and am sitting in the foyer waiting for the temperature to slightly ease. I am over the lack of facilities in hotel rooms here.
And I hate to feel that way as I have been blessed with such rare sunny weather – the very thing bikers dream about for Norway. However it’s been hard to sleep in these rooms. Sorry if I am sounding negative but even a $20 room in SE Asia will have an air conditioner and often a fridge and kettle. Rooms here are $300 a night.
Oystese to Seljord
The skies this morning are a little dull but it’s slightly cooler which I am grateful for.
Lots of tunnels this morning, some have junctions with roundabouts inside them.
Todays route is super heavy traffic. Some places where the road narrows they are doing traffic control to limit vehicles to one way at a time with lengthy wait times. However I can see why as there are 100’s of motorhomes queued on each side and if they were allowed to drive uncontrolled they would all get stuck and the road would end up impassable.
Very scenic riding along the side of the fjord once past the traffic jams.
Pete and Jenny catch me up and I ride this afternoon a little way with them then they stay in the cool highlands above while I carry on and take nice backroads route as shown below (blue route).
The weather turned a little overcast not great for photos but cooler and this route was a terrific ride, low traffic with nice curves.
My room tonight at least has a proper pedestal fan which makes a world of difference. The hotel restaurant fare is too fancy for me so I got a nice ready made pasta at the local Meny supermarket and a couple of local beers and for first time in weeks I get to sleep little early thanks to the fan and some rain which brings a slight drop in the temperature.
Seljord to Oslo
On the road a little earlier today despite the short route just to make sure I am not caught in any type of road closure or other delay as I have a ferry to catch at midday.
I stopped for a look at the Heddal stave church which was built in the 13th century then just easy highway ride into Oslo and on to the port where I check in for the same overnight ferry I came up from Germany on.
Very slow to board. We all sat around for over an hour. I arrived prepared having picked up a drink and baguette at a gas station on the outskirts of Oslo. Eventually we are moving but then another 15 minute delay at the mouth of the ship. Four Harley riders who had arrived late push in when we start moving then at the 15 minute wait point everyone stops their engines except these guys who sat there blipping their engines through straight pipes the whole time (◔_◔).
Still I was happy it was dry during the wait and was very happy I have completed my Norway ride without incident.
Oslo – Kiel Ferry
Comfortable cabin. Bigger than on my way north, this one even has a fridge. Very nice.
I just relaxed in my cabin and worked on this ride report then for dinner got some nice wine from the onboard duty free shop and a takeaway pizza. I’m never going to meet someone this way but I am happy in my own company.
A few final thoughts on the KTM 1290 Super Adventure as I sail south.
The engine has grown on me. It really is superb at all revs and all speeds. The bike overall is a very easy and enjoyable machine to ride.
The radar cruise control is not implemented as well as the BMW system despite being same hardware with the gap maintained not consistent and of the five gap settings I could only use the 5th ‘very long’ gap that still was only about 4 car lengths behind the car I was following.
I got a giggle out of how the Resume Cruise function worked from a lower speed than set. With BMW it gently accelerates you back to your pre-set cruise speed while the KTM goes briefly full throttle to get you back up to speed ha-ha.
Reminds me of back in the 80’s I rented a new VL Commodore for a holiday to Cairns (with a beautiful redhead girlfriend). I had the cruise set to 160kph (pre speed enforcement in QLD). After slowing behind a car I would press resume when I pulled out to pass and the VL (with the Nissan Skyline six) would kick down and take off at full throttle. It was like Captain Picard waving a hand and engaging warp drive. Highly amusing for me and my feisty GF back then and I found myself now grinning while reminiscing (as well lamenting that time now long lost) when the KTM did the same.
Seat is average but the aero dynamics are only real weak point for me. The 1300GS with its electric screen is a much better tourer. However I did not miss having a shaft drive. I presume the KTM has one of those new diamond like coated chains as Stephan told me no need to do any chain maintenance and the final drive was very quiet and smooth same as the KTM’s gearbox and engine which I like much more than the boxer engine and gearbox.
Overall it is a fun bike and can see how it has developed a fan base.
Kiel to Hamburg
I got lost trying to find the bike. The ship is huge with about 16 elevators which all look the same. After about 15 minutes I see a staff member and call out I am lost and then even he cannot find where the bikes are and needs to radio someone else.
Finally I am going to test my laminated rider gear because it is cool and raining outside and forecast is steady rain all the way to Hamburg.
I stop a little south of Kiel at a highway rest area to check my gear for leaks then I phone Stephan at the bike shop to say the weather is shite so I will riding directly back to Hamburg with an earlier arrival time.
The autobahn becomes a traffic jam closer to Hamburg so I detour on minor roads and the slower speed is more comfortable in the rain. The pinlock on my Nolan helmet works really well and my TCX boots are already proven in rain. I arrive dry and will talk further about the Merlin jacket and pants in separate posts.
Easy return of the KTM. Stephan makes me a hot coffee and we have a good chat. Do consider him for your future bike touring. No Uber in Hamburg so I use the FreeNow app to get fixed price taxi to my hotel and indulge in a hotel restaurant dinner with large beer to celebrate a very successful tour of Norway.
