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The Yamaha FJR1300 must be one of the easiest bikes to change lubricants.
Starting with the engine oil you can access the drain plug very easy underneath, simply remove and drain the oil, I am using a designated container that has plastic liner which has to be taken to a oil recycle centre which is perhaps only hassle of doing this myself however the cost is 1/10th a bike shop charges – mainly as they seem obligated to use Yamaha genuine engine oil which costs 5 times as much as Castrol but since Yamaha don’t have any oil wells that I know of is going to be exactly same just in a different container.
The filter is easy to access on the side, here I already have the filter removal tool/socket attached. I got that from amazon for $3, the oil disposal carton $2, generic filter $6 and oil $20, all with free delivery.
The observant might note some scratches on bike. It has fallen over when stationary in car park. The weight surprised and got the better of me early on, fortunately nothing except a few scratches on mirror and pannier and engine cover none of which I can be bothered to have touched up as bikes residual value already zero in Japan.
Back to the oil change. You probably already know to smear a little oil on the o ring of the new oil filter and not to over tighten it, firm by hand is enough. To find a generic oil filter that is right fit for your bike is easy on Amazon but if in doubt you can always look up the Yamaha part number then search for that which will guarantee a match.
Then use a funnel to replace the oil and you are done. Takes maybe 15 minutes at the most. I suggest you always wear gloves when handling oil as it can cause irritation to the skin and below the filter a few drops of oil may drip so good idea to place something in there and on the ground in front, I actually had few sheets of newspaper in use above out of frame.
Changing final drive oil is even easier. Remove the drain bolt at bottom of hub and drain old oil. The fill bolt is that one at an angle, Yamaha say fill till about to overflow, which is about 200ml. I got 500ml oil from Amazon for $9 delivered so cost for one change is $4.50 and time required is just 10 minutes. (it was no cheaper to buy other brand for the gear oil at time)
An oddity of Japan is oil only comes in tin cans, both the 4 litre and this 500ml are tin like was used in Australia up until the 70’s. Not sure why, probably just another ‘we have always done it that way’ thing that is so prevalent here.
Well that’s it, easy huh. Time now for me to load up for this years big tour, 23 days riding Japan.
I had to laugh seeing the drain pan you use. A cardboard box and plastic bag. Just get a plastic drain pan and pour the oilback into the tin mate. Then I thought he probably doesn’t have a bunning nearby.
Looking forward to the 23 day trip.
No there are lots of rules here Steve regarding how any type of item is disposed of. I have to use one of these boxes with absorbent filler inside a bag then take it to place and pay small fee.
Rubbish has to be separated here, a different category of item is collected each morning five days a week and then other special items are collected on designated days of each month. Labels must be peeled off PET bottles, caps removed and separated, cardboard cartons cut open and flattened, boxes packed flat and so on it goes. I have a chart as it is complex but is also true recycling which I appreciate now.
Nice description. I love oil changes and final drive changes on the fjr.
I’m changing mine tomorrow before a weekend getaway. 23 days?? Wow ha e a blast. Best bike ever!!
Hi Doug, I have a 25 day tour coming up in a week, it is so easy on this bike.
I am looking to buy a FJR ES. 2016 or newer from a individual if they have one to depart from. In the state of Georgia.
Jimmy, you would be best to post in one of the two large FJR1300 groups on Facebook.
Hi The Fjr1300 2015 to date have a problem with the 2nd gear in the new 6 speed box , gear isn’t hardened and is soft compared to original gears and can strip the gears and cause a total lock of the rear wheel while in motion . Yamaha have advised owners to limit use of the bike until the factory repair is complete and is no cost to the owner . While there they will also update ECU software to limit stress on the gearbox in that gear . This all happened when Yamaha moved to 6th gear which in the end made no real difference to the bike .
Yes I read about the recall. I have the five speed model and you are right, there was no need for a six speed box.
The press looking for something to bitch about picked on the five speed gearbox for years and owners who ride 80mph interstates chimed in thinking an extra gear would be a overdrive, not just an extra split in the ratios since the bike and it’s final drive still has to suit the whole world not only high speed expressways.
Personally an extra gear would be a negative. I don’t want to be shifting more, tap dancing on a gear shifter is for sports bike riders, not what I seek on tour.
IV owned 2 FJRs an 06 and the 2012 models the only difference IV noticed was the 012 came with heated grips as for a 6 gear the FJR doesn’t need it really if you’re riding along at 145 kmh and your bike is reving 500 rpm lower than that with a 6 speed gearbox I’m pretty sure the vibrations wouldn’t convince me to go out and buy a 6 speed Yamaha FJR when the same 5 speed has been doing its job so good years and years before the 6 speed gearbox was even thought about.if it’s not broken then don’t fix it
Hi David,
The 2013 revision saw many changes from your models. Digital dash, ride by wire with engine modes, electric windscreen, electronic cruise control, electric adjustable suspension. The 2016 revision less but the LED lighting looks great and I’d enjoy the lighter clutch that the 6 speed box gives riders.
However I won’t be buying another FJR1300 now I live in Australia. The thermo fans bath the rider in too much heat for the tropics.